BISTECCA ALLA FIORENTINA

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Florentine Steak

How to Rock a Steak Like a Tuscan!

Steak_18a

Buon giorno!

Here’s the beef! Do Italians really eat steak? We thought pasta was their thing. WRONG! Italians are definitely about more than pasta. Not only do they eat  and prepare steak with the same simplicity and respect for ingredients that you see in their other dishes but their preparation is given the same precision. Nowhere do they do it better than in Tuscany, home of the infamous Bistecca Alla Fiorentina or Florentine Steak, among the most classic of all Italian dishes. (Fiorentina – means in the style of Florence) The preparation of this dish is so simple and easy, you might wonder – what’s the big deal? I’m here to tell you that this simplicity IS the big deal.

I know, I know – everyone has his/her favorite method of cooking steak. This is a little different, and I offer only guidelines, as I am not right there to peer into your grill detecting the hotness or intensity of the fire. All I can say  is – this is different –it is the Florentine way – and it results in an amazing piece of meat.

First, back to the pasture: Italy is not known for its abundance of grazing land. Thus, less beef is eaten in many regions than other meats. The finest of these areas are located in the North. Ah – but then… there’s Tuscany! A drumroll please… It is here in the renowned Val di Chiana near Arezzo that the revered Chianina cattle make their home and provide the steak for the authentic preparation of Bistecca Alla Fiorentina. These animals are always white and provide some of the finest steaks in Italy. Pronounced: kya-NEE-na, these cattle are the largest breed in the world and among the oldest dating back over 2200 years. Because of the high quality of tender and juicy meat and the nutritional value they have been cross-bred with cattle throughout the world.

The Tuscan Way: Typically, Tuscans cook very simply with the best of ingredients. They do not douse their culinary creations in fancy complicated sauces. Aside from relying on good ingredients, the Tuscans, look more to method – how a dish or a meat is prepared. In this case, Tuscans follow some definite rules. The authenticity of the steak dish is all-important. Aside from using the Chianina beef, the cut needs to be perfect – from the vitellone or young steer (not a calf) – uh – and well hung, as they say. No joke – it’s true!  Alas, in this case, folks, size does matter. The steak must be at least an inch thick and cut from the rib. The usual portion designated for two is 2 1/2 pounds, and the cut is preferably Porterhouse with the filet and contre filet. However a T-bone is a fine choice. A 2 1/2 inch thick steak or “three fingers” is perfect.

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Dry, Dry, Baby: Obviously, dry-aged is the way to go if you can, but the pocketbook does not always allow. To go the extra mile, and get the most out of what you have, you can dry your steak a little beforehand as described by the blog,  Memorie di Angelina : Try propping the steak up on chopsticks  for a few hours so that air can travel underneath and take some of the wetness out of the meat. This is definitely worth doing, folks. You can also repeat this chopstick idea after grilling when you are letting the steak rest for a few minutes.

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Burn Notice: Never, never, never overcook a Tuscan steak. It’s a rule! (and a tragedy)  Customarily, the steak is grilled over charcoal or wood fire. Just a few short minutes on each side, you’re done. A true “Fiorentina” is traditionally served rare – but the idea is to enjoy it – so if you must have it a little more “done”, have at it.

The Slicing: You will always see this steak cut in one characteristic fashion which is straight across the meat, with the filet removed first ( if you have a Porterhouse) and then then the contre filet or strip steak.

Oh By the way: My husband, Tom, likes to take the leftover steak (“as if” there is any left) and lightly fry it up in a little olive oil with a fried egg the morning after. He says this is not your Waffle House Steak and Eggs –it’s the best you will ever taste. Put it on your bucket list. A “must do”.

Perfection: You can find Bistecca Alla Fiorentina virtually anywhere in the Florence area. When it’s good – it’s perfection!

Fire up that grill for the best steak you’ll ever have! Move over, “favorite steakhouse” – you no longer need their services.

BISTECCA ALLA FIORENTINA

Serves: 2

Cook time: about 20-24 minutes for the size indicated–for rare Fiorentina style

Rest: 5-10 minutes

Ingredients:

1  2 1/2 pound Porterhouse or T-Bone Steak about 2 – 2 1/2 in. thick – or even 3 if you like!  We’re talkin’ thick here. Go with the 3 finger rule!

Extra Virgin Olive Oil for brushing and drizzling

Sea Salt or Coarse Salt

Freshly Ground Pepper

Lemon Wedges or Grilled Lemon Halves

Instructions:

Important: Take steak out of refrigerator at least an hour before cooking (2 is better) and bring down to room temp – results will always improve by doing this. Try the chopsticks method mentioned in the text.

Sprinkle with Sea Salt and fresh pepper generously just after you take it out. This helps to form a crust when grilled. Lots of Sea Salt or coarse salt is necessary before and after the grilling.

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When ready, heat up your grill to very hot – preferably using charcoal or wood fire (You’re going to want some good smoke here – I prefer wood – oak, hickory etc)

Grill the steak 3-4 inches from the fire.

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Plan on about 8 minutes per side for the rare Fiorentina style, (plus a few minutes standing on the bone) if your steak is in the 2 1/2 inch range, but the time will depend on how you like it. The time will ultimately be determined by how hot your grill is and how you prefer the meat. This is only a guide. Keep in mind that the steak will continue to cook a little after you remove it from the grill. The thicker the steak – the longer the cook time. If 3 inches – plan on about 20-24 minutes total on a hot and smoking grill for rare meat alla Fiorentina.

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When the first side is done – flip the steak over and cook that side.

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When the second side is finished, some like to stand the steak on the grill upright on the bone side for about 4 minutes. This forces the blood away from the bone and provides more even cooking.

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A note: Be careful – the tenderloin side will cook faster than the strip or contre filet side. Move the steak around to accommodate as necessary.

Let the steak rest for about 5-10 minutes after removing from grill.

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Just before serving, Salt and pepper again and drizzle with Extra Virgin Olive Oil.

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The slicing is part of tradition and authenticity. It is done this way:

Cut the filet out first.

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Then cut out the contre filet or the strip steak.

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Then slice each section. It is usually served as you see here.

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Serve with lemon wedges or grilled lemon halves. I like earthy choices for sides here: some beautiful sauteed wild mushrooms along with a bowl of Tuscan white beans seasoned with a little olive oil, coarse salt, and fresh Rosemary.

The Finish: A steak like this prepared in an authentic fashion must always, in my book, be served with the very best you can afford in a beautiful red wine. Many like Barolo, but my first selection would be the smooth and always lovely Brunello di Montalcino. Casalino 2006 DOCG is a beauty. A fine Chianti Classico Riserva would also give this fine steak its proper due.

Not another word necessary!

PARLA COME MANGI!

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GRANITA DI CAFFE CON PANNA

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MEMORIES ARE MADE OF THIS

Granita di Caffe_11

Buon giorno!

Memories can be such nuggets of bliss! It’s funny how some of the little ones just stick with you. Many years ago, when I was very young, my mother and father (Loretta and Attilio) visited Italy for the first time after my father’s initial crossing to Ellis Island as a child. It was a huge event for them, and they returned home with so many stories of fabulous eating and sampling. The one that always jumps to my mind is Attilio’s account of his first encounter with GRANITA DI CAFFE CON PANNA – an icy form of espresso with cream. He talked about it longingly afterward. It always remained a part of the special memories of his return to Italy.

Years later, on a visit of my own, I arrived in Rome very late at night and hurried from Leonardo da Vinci Airport to a small pensione on the Via Porta Pinciana called the Bellavista Milton (probably long gone by now!) overlooking the gorgeous Villa Borghese Gardens. I dropped my bags and beat a hasty path around the corner to the Via Veneto and a sidewalk café – to do what? That’s right! The very first thing I did in Rome was to sample that special iced espresso treat that my father had talked about for all those years before. Was it really THAT special? Answer: to a coffee drinker – it was heaven! You can bet, I enjoyed several more before I left.

Whether you like coffee or espresso – you will love this – especially in the summertime. Using espresso, it has every bit of the “jolt” you’d expect, but tempered with a sweetness and the velvety smooth texture of whipped cream. Now, there is no reason why you can’t make this with regular coffee or even decaf. However, I will say that the espresso carries it to a height that coffee cannot reach and offers the sharpest contrast to the cream. So I’ll leave the choice to you! It is a wonderful summer pick-me-up on a hot afternoon or at the end of a beautiful evening or dinner whether in Roma, On the Patio, or anywhere.

Pronounce: To say Granita – think: Grah-nee-tah – with emphasis on the NEE.

What is it: Granita is just ice crystals made from any liquid. The liquid can be fruit as well as coffee or espresso. In this case, the coffee is frozen and scraped to form little ice crystals. The “edge” from the jolting caffeine is softened somewhat with a little sugar and whipped cream. Iced coffee it’s NOT! So, what’s the big deal? There is something wonderful about those cold slivers of coffee hitting your tongue on a hot day – followed by the smoothness of the whipped cream that sneaks into every mouthful.

When in Rome: Rome is perhaps the most famous city in Italy for Granita Di Caffe Con Panna. It can be found in many cafes and in almost any gelateria. However, the hunt for the very best narrows to two espresso bars: Sant ‘Eustachio and Tazza D’Oro near the Pantheon. There is a huge battle that rages between the two for the top spot. The rivalry extends even to how the sugar is combined with the espresso including the timing and temperature. The sugar is very important because it is said to be the key ingredient  which produces the highly prized crema in the espresso. The baristas are secretive and even hide when they add the sugar so as not to release their technique. There is not a soul in Rome who is not familiar with it, and they all know where to get their favorite preparation.

How to serve: This “almost” espresso, “almost” ice, “almost” dessert find its perfect season in the summertime when it is sometimes just too hot to serve a heavy dessert. On a hot afternoon, it can be a great icy “pick-me-up” – perfect after a bike ride or a run. After dinner, it is a light and settling end to a great dinner when you don’t want a heavy course – yet you don’t want the meal to end just yet. Served outside – it can’t be beat!

Not what you expect: I recently served Granita di Café Con Panna to our good friends visiting from Maine, Tom and Kathy Byrnes. Tom Byrnes said he expected something heavy and strong from the espresso. They were not anticipating the light nature of the Granita , the brightness in flavor, and how much they enjoyed it over all. Surprise! Surprise!

Options: If you don’t care for espresso, you can use regular coffee. Just make sure it is fresh. I do recommend trying it with espresso first as it is amazing! The deep dark richness of the espresso is an experience you will not get with regular coffee. You can also add some flavoring to your coffee or use a flavored coffee, if you like. I like to serve it in glasses so that you can see the contrasts of light and dark in the ingredients. Wine glasses or “Old Fashion” (the drink) glasses are great for this. However, you certainly can offer it in espresso cups or coffee cups as well.

Here’s my take on it:

GRANITA DI CAFFE CON PANNA

 

Serves: 4

Ingredients:

2 Measuring cups of Fresh-Brewed Espresso (Substitute reg. coffee or decaf if preferred)

2 Tbsp. Sugar

1/2-3/4 cup Heavy Cream whipped to soft peaks with a little vanilla or cinnamon and 1/2 Tbsp sugar ( you may have some left over but this will give you plenty to work with)

Good dense dark chocolate – grated or shaved

Instructions:

Prepare your coffee or espresso for enough to fill 2 measuring cups full.

While still piping hot, add the sugar, stir, and dissolve completely. Let it completely cool.

When cool, pour into a pan and place in the freezer. When it starts to freeze, take a fork and scrape it, mix it to make crystals. Initially it will be wet as the crystals form.

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Keep doing this every few minutes – repeat this step until you have a container of frozen ice crystals or slush which appears dry. It will set up fairly quickly. This slush is the Granita! See how it sets up in stages:

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(If you want to make it a day ahead, you can use the above method. The Granita will harden -  so just leave it out for about 5 minutes and loosen again with a fork.  An alternative is to freeze the espresso or coffee in an ice cube tray. Just before you want to use it, pop the cubes of coffee into a food processor and pulse til you have slush or Granita. I personally prefer the scraping method as I feel like I have more control over the process.)

The frozen coffee crystals seem almost dry when ready to use.

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You are now ready to create!

Begin by adding some Granita to your glass.

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Then add some of the whipped cream.

Sprinkle on some of the dark chocolate.

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Follow that with another layer of Granita.

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Then one last dollop of the whipped cream, and top the whole thing off with some of the dark chocolate. DONE!

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For Fun: Try adding some cocoa to the espresso powder when making the espresso for this. The result is a little added mocha flavor. Another nice touch is to drizzle a little liqueur over the crystals in each glass – perhaps Frangelico, Amaretto, Sambuca. You probably figured I might work my candied citrus peel in here somewhere, and you’d be right! Serve some chocolate dipped peel along with this icy wonder or even place one on the top. It pairs perfectly with the espresso.

More Fun: Try different types of shaved dark chocolate with this. Have fun with it and try some of these:

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Lindt Smooth Dark 70%, Lindt Intense Orange Dark, Green & Black’s Dark Chocolate 70% or Green & Black’s Ginger Dark Chocolate

I hope Granita Di Caffe Con Panna becomes your go-to summer surprise for your family and guests. Coffee enthusiasts will love this. You won’t have to go all the way to Rome to get it – but then, that’s not a bad idea either! Til then – see you On the Patio!
Coffee Granita on FoodistaCoffee Granita
 

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BOWTIE PASTA WITH LAMB & PEAS

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Farfalle with Lamb and Peas

BAA, BAA, BAA!

 

Buon giorno!

Bowtie Pasta with Lamb

I am always excited about Italian food, but there is something about Italian dishes made with lamb that thrills me to the “bone”. To me, lamb is the most rustic of meats used in Italian cooking. It has flavor like no other and flavors sauces, stews, and soups in a very distinctive way. Although traditional Italian pasta sauce made with lamb is always a stand out, today’s recipe, Bowtie Pasta with Lamb and Peas, is a spring/summer-like alternative to the standard pasta preparation and is simple, healthy, and satisfying.

So let’s talk more about lamb for just a moment:

Tradition: Traditionally, spring lamb is served at Easter in Italian households to herald the religious occurrence of the Resurrection and Spring itself. Fortunately, we now are able to find good spring lamb at our grocer’s, or we can order it in advance, if needed easily. In the Italian home, the roasted lamb is usually served with a lovely vino rosso, a crusty Italian loaf, and roasted potatoes and vegetables – simply prepared with simple and fresh ingredients.

Bad ju-ju: Let us not confuse sweet, tender spring lamb with mutton. If you are eating an old sheep, you know it. In such an event, let the “Baa-ing” begin. It is not sweet. It is not tasty. It is not tender. As far as I am concerned, it is simply bad ju-ju to equate the two. Mutton is a different meat entirely and our British friends can keep it.

Today’s dish: Today we’ll turn the tables a little, and look at a simple non-holiday use of ground lamb in a pasta dish. Ground lamb is usually very easy to find and far more flavorful than ground beef or turkey. Bowtie Pasta with Lamb and Peas cooks very quickly and will marry well with wine and herbs to make a lovely dish. Unlike others, this pasta preparation using Farfalle or Bowties and peas is simple, rustic, and perfect for that quick “Tuesday night meal”.

Pour a glass of vino: OK are we ready? We begin by pouring ourselves a glass of a nice white wine – perhaps using the wine you will use in the dish. (Bet you just thought I was going to say red, didn’t you?) Gotta be on your toes around here, as very few things are absolute in Italian cooking, and there are always wonderful surprises. Now, gals, kick off those stilettos and put your freshly pedicured toes up—and guys, park yourselves in that  “Lazyboy” and lose the remote control for just a moment.  Let’s watch a video  explaining how to make a quick, easy, and oh so delicious pasta dish.

[Video]

Video by Tommy Hanks Photography

BOWTIE PASTA WITH LAMB AND PEAS

Serves 4

Prep Time: 15 minutes

Cook Time: 25 minutes

Ingredients:

1 lb bowtie (Farfalle) pasta – cooked according to package directions

3 Tbsp.Olive Oil

1 lb ground lamb (so much more flavor than ground beef or turkey)

1 tsp Kosher Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

3 cloves fresh garlic – chopped finely

1 onion – chopped

2 Tbsp. fresh Rosemary – chopped

1/2 c. – 3/4 cup white wine

2 c. peas – cooked

2 Tbsp butter

1/3 c. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Cheese

Juice of 1/2 Fresh Lemon

1/4 c. Fresh Mint – chopped

Grated Ricotta Salata Cheese**

Good Extra Virgin Olive Oil for drizzling

Instructions:

In the olive oil, just brown the ground lamb.Do not cook all the way through as it has more cooking to do, and it will be dry otherwise. Season with Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.Remove lamb from pan with a slotted spoon and reserve.

In the same pot with all of the juices and oil from the lamb, cook garlic and onion until tender – just a few minutes.

Add lamb back to pan. Then add Rosemary and white wine. ( Add a little extra wine if you like. – I like!) Stir a little and cook the sauce down by 1/2.

Add Peas, and butter. Stir in and let butter just melt.

Add Parmigiano-Reggiano and fresh lemon juice. Stir in.

Add cooked pasta to the sauce and mix well coating all the bowties.

At this point, if you feel your pasta is a little dry, you can add a large serving spoon – or 2 of PASTA WATER (the water you used to cook your pasta)

Mix well and taste to see if you need to adjust the seasoning with more salt or pepper. This is Important!

Sprinkle with Fresh Mint and grated Ricotta Salata**

Drizzle with Extra Virgin  Olive Oil and serve.

**A word about Ricotta Salata – Recently a class participant asked me to talk more about this as it was unfamiliar. It is a form of Ricotta that is salted and dried for grating purposes. It is made from sheep’s milk and a wonderful alternative for Feta or Pecorino Romano.

Bowtie Pasta with Lamb and Peas  - Add a nice white wine to pair with this dish – perhaps a Pinot Grigio or a Chardonnay. Not so bad for a Tuesday night meal – or any night! OK, fellas, time to get out of the “Lazyboy”!

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CHICKPEA SALAD

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Insalata di Ceci

Chick Pea Salad_0025

Buon giorno!

 

There is nothing that tickles all of the senses like an Insalata di Ceci – or Chickpea Salad, especially when it includes fresh aromatic ingredients like oranges and fennel (finocchio), two of my favorites. The scent of the oranges permeates the kitchen when you prepare this dish, along with the unmistakably lingering anise aroma of the fennel. The vivid colors tempt the eye, and the flavor of every component is distinct, each with its own level of crunch while at the same time combining together in harmony to bring the taste buds to crescendo.

Where best to enjoy this splendid mix of color and flavor? I choose outdoors! On the patio or al fresco is undeniably my favorite place to dine. There is something about the fresh air, balmy breezes if you’re lucky, and good company of the birds and bees around you. It reminds me of of those outdoor meals, alive with chatter, in Italy served on long tables in the open air, perhaps on the loggia, that go on for hours.

As a family, we often took meals together this way on our patio in Binghamton, NY, when the weather permitted, and usually frequently in the summertime. Italians don’t know the meaning of “a quick bite”. These events often lasted all afternoon on a summer Sunday, a bottle of vino rosso on hand, and about nine of us, including family members and several “strays”, all trying to out-shout each other over seemingly endless courses of flavorful food. Even with the cacophony, I am bound to that memory. Perhaps that is why I continue to seek any opportunity for dining outdoors – to recapture those moments. In the South, there are many nights offering just such a perfect temperature and setting, and I take advantage of every one.

The grill: Very often, on these evenings, my husband, Tom, takes to the grill with all proper utensils and does the “man thing” with a great steak or firm piece of fish. It is always my task to come up with an interesting side dish. Tired of green salads with all the usual suspects, chickpeas or “ceci” as Italians call them offer an interesting canvas on which to paint something different for the occasion. I love chickpeas! You can do almost anything with them – adding them to soups, stews, throw them in salads etc.

With grilling season about to launch in a major way, much scouting will begin for that different and fresh dish that is beautiful to look at and will also marry perfectly with seared and char-broiled meats and fish. Along with your grilled favorite, this Chickpea Salad is truly “ un matrimonio fatto in paradiso!” ( A marriage made in heaven!)

About Chickpeas: Read all about the health benefits of eating chickpeas at The World’s Healthiest Foods.

By any other name: Italians love ceci – not to be confused with Cheechi, Ciccio, or Cheech – your Italian buddy’s godfather. In almost every story about the Mafia, there is always a Cheech, and every true Italian knows at least one person with that name. Rather, the ceci we entertain for today’s dish are plump, round little beans with a soft but not mushy consistency. Known also as chickpeas or garbanzos, biting into ceci properly cooked is similar to biting into a soft nougat. They combine well with endless varieties of flavors. They are available in cans or in dried form. I like using the dried whenever possible, as they tend to maintain their substance, firmness, and full flavor. The canned are good “in a pinch” but, to me, are never as satisfying to cook with as the dried. They seem to lack the distinctive flavor, and run the risk of “mushing up” when tossed. Have you ever tried the dried form of these beans? Give it a shot! It is definitely worth the extra effort.

Today, we have Insalata di Ceci! This dish is not only delicious but also very fresh tasting. It makes a great side dish for your barbeque as well as that dish you promised to bring to Zia Maria’s christening party for her cousin’s daughter’s new baby. It just seems to go with everything. You can put it together a day ahead, and it will be the most attractive offering on the table. Troppo Bella! To illustrate how delicious this is, the last time I made it, my husband ate the leftover salad for breakfast.

Let’s begin now because we first must give the Ceci an overnight swim!

Insalata di Ceci

(Chickpea Salad)

Chickpeas:

1 c. dried Chickpeas – soak in water to cover overnight – then drain

Place the soaked chickpeas in 2 1/2 qts of water with 3 cloves of garlic each cut in half, and 1/2 tsp. Kosher salt. Bring to boil and then simmer for a couple of hours. You will see a white foam form on the surface of the water. You can skim that off. Stir occasionally and add more water if getting dry. Drain the chickpeas and set aside.

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Fennel:

Prepare 2 medium or 1 large fennel bulb as follows:Cut off the base and feathery green fronds. Peel outer layer.

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Slice the bulb vertically and cut out the inner core.

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Facing one half bulb downward toward the cutting board, slice horizontally across. Repeat with the other piece or pieces until completely sliced.

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Orange:

Grate the zest of 1 orange and put aside for the dressing.

Peel the orange and divide into single sections, cutting each section in 1/2.

Instructions:

In a bowl combine:

Sliced fennel

orange pieces

9 Peperoncini (these come in a jar)- sliced into rings with seeds removed or about ½ c. presliced Peperoncini rings

1/2 purple onion sliced thinly

1 c. pitted black olives or Kalamatas (amt. depends on how much you like black olives!)

5 Campari or Cherry tomatoes – cut into quarters

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1/3 c. roughly chopped fresh basil

A little extra chopped fresh basil for the top of the salad for garnish

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Add the chickpeas and toss.

Dressing

1/3 c. Extra virgin olive oil

1/4 c. Orange juice

Zest of 1 orange

1 clove garlic – chopped very finely

1 tsp. White Vinegar

1/2 tsp Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Pinch Red Pepper Flakes

Whisk above ingredients, add to chickpea salad and toss well. Taste and correct seasoning to taste if required. Refrigerate until serving time.

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Chickpea Salad can be made a day ahead and refrigerated. NOTE: if making ahead, taste and see if it needs re-seasoning before serving. Sometimes when the salad sits, it absorbs some flavor and needs a refresher.

See you on the patio!

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