Afternoon With The Babushkas

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Making Kolachkis (and a whole lot more!)

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Buon giorno!

My very Italian mother, Loretta, baked the most amazing cookies at holiday time. I can still see them in my mind’s eye – each one exactly the perfect size for her plates, one of each kind that we all loved and looked forward to. One of these cookies wasn’t the least bit Italian – but actually Russian, the Kolachki. It was everybody’s favorite and the first one missing from every plate. You might wonder why my very Italian mother would slip one of these “foreign” cookies into her repertoire. The truth is she took delight in baking many types of goodies regardless of their origin. This one, however, really stands out, as it wasn’t Christmas at our Italian table without the Kolachkis. I always thought my mother’s recipe was stellar with a rich cream cheese dough and sweet nutty filling – and it truly was.

However, I had a recent experience at the home of Stephanie Wahl, fabulous cook, amazing grandma, and good friend, which has totally re-written my thinking on these wonderful cookies. Every year, Steph invites a group of women to her home to make Kolachkis. This year I attended. When I tell you this is not just a cookie baking fest, I am not exaggerating. It is much more. Over the years, Steph has named her group, The Babushkas, (Bab-oosh-kas). The Babushka is the Western term for a kerchief or head scarf that is traditionally worn on the head of Russian peasant women and tied under the chin. It really refers to an elderly Russian woman or grandmother. Meet the Babushkas:

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As legend dictates, the Babushka was a poor old woman who lived a solitary life in the country. One night she heard bells coming towards her door. The bells were the three kings following the bright star which was to lead them to the baby King. The kings asked the old woman to accompany them, but she declined. Later, she decided to follow them and wandered from town to town asking for the baby King and describing the three kings who came to her door. She brought treats so as not to frighten the children when when she looked closely at their faces to see if they were the child she sought. It is said that she still wanders to this day, looking for the child, and along the way gives a little gift and candy to each child she encounters. (story credited to Dr. Michael Lockett, The Normal Storyteller via Stephanie Wahl)

Everyone who attends the annual Babushka event must wear— a Babushka. Your ticket into this fest is a babushka, a rolling pin, and an apron. Many bring appetizers, polka music sets the tone, and the wine – well—the wine flows! Every participant takes home a special book and embroidered tea towel, both created by Stephanie, which included a history, photos, recipes and detailed instructions. SOOOO much fun!

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Stephanie makes a delicious sour cream dough and makes three homemade fillings: nut, apricot, and lekvar or prune ( my personal fave!) One of the Babushkas, Mary Ann Trent, is encouraging  Steph to add an Italian version with chocolate. Not a bad idea!! This year, Stephanie made approximately 2100 cookies and used 18 pounds of butter. Fantastico! She is an amazingly patient coach and makes sure that everyone rolls beautiful Kolachkis the first time out with “no jagged edges”. Her secret is to roll the dough in a circle, placing the filling around the outside of it, and then she cuts them like little pie wedges. It’s pretty amazing and she never has a jagged edge!

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The “new kids” rolled first, while the veterans stood by offering their “two cents” while enjoying wine and trading stories. Everyone had a cooking or baking story. Of course, we all got to eat these incredible cookies. They were surprisingly light, and the fillings were the best of their kind I have ever tasted. This event was the absolute highlight of my Christmas season this year.

Many thanks to Stephanie for sharing her recipes with us!

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Stephanie’s Kolachki Dough

4+ cups flour (Steph likes White Lily all purpose)

1 lb. salted butter (room temp)

4 egg yolks

1/2 c. sour cream

Granulated and powdered sugar for rolling

Use your mixer to mix the dough. Blend the flour and butter in mixer using dough hooks. Add yolks and sour cream. Keep adding flour until you can work the dough and it is not too sticky. Empty dough onto counter, keep adding flour a little at a time and work the dough until it is easy to shape. Shape into a log, 12-14 inches long. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and chill for at least 3 days. * You can also freeze the dough. When ready to use, cut the log into 15 slices. Mix granulated sugar and 10x sugar together and us it to roll the dough. Roll each slice into an 8 “ circle. Spread filling in the outer edge of the circle, not too much and not to close to outer edge. Cut each circle like a pizza, into 8 pieces. Roll the outer edge toward the pointed end. Bake on sheet lined with parchment paper at 375 degrees for about 15 min. Adjust the tem. and baking time to your individual ovens.

Prune Filling  (from Joy of Baking)

1 lb. dried prunes                                  1 tsp. cinnamon

1/2 c. sugar                                            1 tsp. vanilla

Boil prunes til tender. Drain and cool. Chop into small pieces add sugar, cinnamon and vanilla. Stir. You can put it in blender to make smooth.

Apricot Filling (from cooks.com)

1 lb dried apricots                                 1 c. sugar

2 c. water                                               Pinch of cinnamon

Boil apricots and water til partially soft. Add sugar and cinnamon. Mash. Put back on stove to simmer til thick. Once cooled down, Steph put it through the blender.

Walnut Filling

1 lb. walnuts – ground – can use pecans

1/2 c. sugar

1/2 c. honey

2 tsps. cinnamon

egg whites mixed til frothy

Use as much of the egg whites that you need to mix the nuts so you can spread on the dough.

Keep refrigerated.

Steph suggests that you can use any filling you want. The three provided here are considered the standards for Kolachkis.

You will love these recipes and I so appreciate Stephanie’s willingness to share them with all of us. I know you will love them too. As for the Babushkas…I just love these ladies!!

PARLA COME MANGI!

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Dolce di Pane

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Bread Pudding, Italian Style, With Sambuca!

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Buon giorno!

Tis the season, as they say, for more sweet things than we can count. Because of this, by January first, we have all signed on to resolutions we can’t/won’t keep and diets that will not make it past six weeks. Nevertheless, soul-mates in blogdom,  if you are anything like me, nothing will deter you from making and eating your weight in holiday sweet treats. While you are pondering what sweet thing will grace your table and your waistline this year, I offer a twisty path to a favorite you may not readily think of. You may have heard me pontificate on all of the creative ways that Italians use bread. Well, here’s another one – Bread Pudding or DOLCE DI PANE.  The flavors I suggest in this dish are great for any time of year – but particularly appropriate for holiday time.

Oh! Does this one make my heart skip a beat! Why? As many of you probably know from your own experience, especially Southerners, Bread Pudding is probably the most comforting of desserts. When I think of sweet comfort food – this one definitely goes to the head of the class. Italian Bread Pudding or DOLCE DI PANE is no different than any other in ease of preparation. BUT —this particular recipe sings a little louder than others in that it contains the traditional elements of Italian dolci: the dried fruits, the citrus zest, and candied peel, chestnuts, dark chocolate and…have I hooked you yet? Well, throw this in to the mix and just try to walk away: Sambuca!

Sambuca is an anise flavored Italian liqueur, very often the most preferred in espresso, or as the Italians say “Caffe Corretto” (corrected coffee). Italians like to think that if their coffee needs correcting – Sambuca is the ticket to paradise. I’m inclined to agree with that. I chose Sambuca not only because I just like it but also because the anise flavor compliments both the dried cherries and the dark chocolate used in this recipe. It is also considered a stomach settling influence – much desired at the end of a mammoth holiday dinner.

Note: If Sambuca is not an option – substitute anise flavoring!

The Sauce: As if it needed any embellishment – I have added the easiest Vanilla Sauce with a touch of Sambuca or anise flavoring, if you like . This Vanilla Sauce is so simple to make and is perfect with the pudding.

A little history: There is nothing new about Bread Pudding, although some restaurants might tout their pricey version on the dessert menu as if they just hung the moon with it. Actually, it even pre-dates me, going back to the 11th-12th century. Many of the puddings prepared in ancient times, were made with meat or meat drippings and resembled sausage. The puddings became sweeter during the Middle Ages. They were thought of as peasant food, as the poorer classes looked for ways not to waste precious bread and also to stave off hunger with more satisfying dishes made with it. Italy was no different during these times and Italian bread pudding became a very traditional offering especially in the Lombardy region.

Bread Pudding..reallllly? An emphatic YES! This DOLCE DI PANE with its specific ingredients and kissed with Sambuca is a dessert that reminds us of home, tradition, and coming together. Although it is not as over the top in lavish presentation as some other desserts, it is, in some ways, more pleasing at the end of a big meal, and definitely surpasses many of the more ostentatious desserts in flavor. Flavor wins the day here. There is something uniquely seductive about a spoonful of this when it is served warm, with the fruits and chocolate hitting your tongue at once followed by the surprising elegance of the Sambuca. This is the one you want to serve when the lights are low, the fire is lit, and, well… you fill in the rest of the story.

You know, some things are just mystical…

DOLCE DI PANE

Serves: 6-8

Prep: 55 min.

Cook: 1 hour

Ingredients:

1 lb. bread – crusts removed – pull apart into pieces

2 1/2 c. Milk

3/4 c. Sugar

5 egg yolks

Zest of 1 orange

4 Tbsp. Sambuca ( can substitute 3 tsp. anise)

1 c. Chestnuts – cut in half

1/3 c. Candied Orange Peel – chopped

1/2 c. Dried Cherries

1/2 c. good dark Chocolate – cut coarsely

Butter for greasing pan

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Instructions:

Put bread pieces in large bowl. Pour milk over and let it soak in for 45 min. Turn it a couple of times during the soaking.

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Butter an 8 inch Bundt pan or a mold for baking the pudding.

OR

Butter a piece of parchment paper and line a loaf pan with it.

Squeeze the milk out of the bread or press the milk out through a strainer and put the bread in another bowl. Discard milk.

I like to plump my dried cherries by pouring boiling water over them and letting them sit for several minutes

Mix the following ingredients together and add to the soaked bread: sugar, yolks, egg, zest, Sambuca, Chestnuts, peel, cherries, and chocolate.

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Pour into Bundt pan, mold, or lined loaf pan – press to even.

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Bake at 350 degrees for an hour.

Let it cool down in pan about an hour. Unmold.

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Cut into generous pieces and always serve it warm with Vanilla Sauce (with or without the Sambuca).

VANILLA SAUCE (WITH SAMBUCA)

The Sambuca is optional in this. Melt 2 cups Vanilla Ice Cream. Do not heat the ice cream – just let it melt. Mix 2 Tbsp. Sambuca with 2 teaspoons of Cornstarch –dissolving it and add it to the ice cream.  Mix well and refrigerate. Serve sauce at room temperature over the pudding or under it. (If you don’t want to use Sambuca – just omit it or add a little anise to the sauce instead. You will still want to add the cornstarch.)

There you are! Not too many ingredients and very simple to create.

To Serve: You can serve this DOLCE DI PANE in the traditional way on a plate with some sauce under or over it. I like to serve it in a tall glass like a martini glass or wine goblet with the sauce. It makes such a pretty presentation. I also like it just a little bit warm with the sauce at room temperature. The flavors really are more pronounced when the chill is off. This is a beauty!

BUON NATALE!

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Gingerbread and White Chocolate Biscotti

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Ginger, Spice, and Everything Nice!

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Buon giorno!

 

So while you’re rockin around that Christmas tree or lighting the next candle on the Menorah, you might wonder what’s missing in your holiday baking repertoire. Well, here it is! Fill your kitchen with the sweet scent of holiday spice! And while you’re at it – may sugarplums dance in your head. Just had to say that. If anything can make that happen, it has to be GINGERBREAD AND WHITE CHOCOLATE BISCOTTI!

These little numbers are the essence of what the holiday season should be – sweet, spicy, and nostalgic. The gingerbread flavor in these takes you right back to the your childhood, and the white chocolate is the perfect confection to pair with the spice in these lovelies. They are also the perfect dunkers for your holiday coffees and hot chocolates. (Secret: they have been known to make the tea, coffee, or hot chocolate you use for dunking taste a little like gingerbread!) They couldn’t get any easier to make with everything piled into the food processor at once except the chips and nuts. I guarantee you will fall in love with these.

I just can’t make it through Christmas without them. Happy dunking!!

GINGERBREAD AND WHITE CHOCOLATE BISCOTTI

Makes: 4 dozen small size

Prep: 20 minutes

Bake: 50 minutes

Ingredients:

3 1/2 c. Flour

1 c. Dark Brown Sugar

Pinch of Salt

2 1/2 tsp. Baking Powder

1 tsp. Cinnamon

1 Tsp. Ginger

1 Tsp. Allspice

1/2 tsp. Ground Cloves

1 Stick Butter – cut in pieces

3 Eggs

1/4 c. Molasses

1 c. White Chocolate Chips

1 c. Very Coarsely Chopped Almonds

Additional white chocolate chips to melt for drizzle or dipping

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Instructions:

For step by step photo instruction on biscotti making: I refer you to my post on: Lemon Ginger Biscotti < just click the link!

In food processor – put flour, dark brown sugar, salt, baking powder, spices. Give a couple of quick turns to mix the ingredients.

Add butter pieces and pulse several times until mixture is crumbly.

Whisk eggs & molasses together and add to processor. Mix until all incorporated.

Turn out onto board or pastry surface – spread out.

Add white choc. chips and chopped almonds. Work into the dough with your hands. For these biscotti I like to add the chips and nuts after processing to ensure they stay chunky.

Form dough into 4 balls. I like the gingerbread biscotti in smaller size. That is the reason for forming 4 balls instead of the usual 2.

Place each ball on baking sheet covered with parchment paper and work each ball into a long log about 9 x 2 inches.

Bake the logs at 350 degrees for 30 minutes. Then remove each log to a rack or board to cool for 15-20 minutes. This resting time is important.

Next slice each log into 1/2 inch pieces and place back on parchment paper covered baking sheets. I like a sharpened straight edge knife for this. Leave a little space between them.

Put sheets back into the oven at 325 degrees for 20 minutes until cookies are dry. Cool completely.

If you like, drizzle with melted white chocolate or dip ends of biscotti into the white chocolate. Put in refrigerator to harden.

Then keep in a sealed plastic container.  Remember biscotti will keep a long time. Every time you open the container, the spice will pop out at you and remind you of gingerbread men—and women. YUM!

BUON NATALE!

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Stuffed Rock Cornish Game Hens & Cranberry Sauce

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Buon giorno!

In my – ahem- younger years, one of my favorite dishes, was my mother, Loretta’s, Stuffed Rock Cornish Game Hens. She made hers in different ways, sometimes using rice , sometimes bread. Often, the preparation was influenced by my father, Attilio’s, special game dishes. He would try to slip something of his own in the stuffing when she wasn’t looking. It was usually some sort of dried fruit that he always used with his game birds, and of course a good slug of wine would get in there— somehow.

Rock Cornish Game Hens aren’t really “game” at all. They are domestically raised and a cross between Cornish and Plymouth Rock chickens. They are small  – bigger than quail – but smaller than pheasant. A hen fits neatly in the palm of one hand. One hen provides a hefty meal for a hearty appetite, but more often will be plenty for 2 people. They are different from chicken in that they are extremely tender, delicately flavored, and juicy – even the white meat. Although they are not considered “game”, they are probably the nearest domestic bird to the wild and most often treated as such in their preparation, using many of the same sauces, cooking styles, and ingredients such as fruit, wine, brandy, sausage, and wild mushrooms.

First – to Italia! Italians are known for being avid hunters. They hunt pigeon, pheasant (fagiano), quail, ducks, geese, doves, venison, hare, and the infamous wild boar (Cinghiale) of Tuscany. Italians eat all kinds of birds – even peacock! In Renaissance times, the nobility in the Northern regions set up their own personal hunting reserves on their land complete with lodges. With only the upper classes given the privilege of hunting there, the peasants were left to catching the occasional “stray”. Aside from their celebrated wild boar dishes and sauces, the Tuscans are also noted for their recipes for guinea hens and hare.

It’s in the cooking: It is common for these Italian hunters to be excellent cooks, in particular, as it pertains to game. My father was one who spared nothing when it came to preparing his “birds”. He made his own sausage for the stuffing, used all kinds of dried and fresh fruits, and prepared his sauces also from the fruits accompanied by different types of brandy and, of course, his favorite Valpolicella wine.  He used pork fat of differing types to give the wild and lean birds more flavor and moisture.

Today, I will give the Stuffed Rock Cornish Game Hens & Cranberry Sauce the “game treatment” and dress them for a special holiday table. In keeping with family tradition, you will recognize some of the ingredients used by Attilio for his game birds. You will love these!

STUFFED ROCK CORNISH GAME HENS & CRANBERRY SAUCE

Serves: 4

Prep:

Cook:

THE HENS:

Ingredients:

2 Rock Cornish Game Hens ( available at any grocer)

2 Tbsp. Olive Oil

1/4 lb. Pancetta – chopped + 4 slices Pancetta for top of hens

1 Medium Onion – shopped

1 Stalk Celery – chopped

2 Tbsp Fresh Parsley – chopped

1 Tbsp. Fresh Sage – chopped

1 Tbsp. Fresh Oregano – chopped

2 Tsp. Fresh Rosemary – chopped

1/2 c. Dried Apricots – chopped

1/2 c. Dried Cranberries

3 c. Italian Bread – broken into pieces – crusts removed – place in large bowl

1 Egg

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Instructions:

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Rinse hens and pat dry. Salt & pepper inside and outside of hens. Place in baking dish.

Cook chopped pancetta in oil until crisp – remove pancetta and set aside.

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In same pan, sauté onion, celery & herbs until tender.

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Add apricots & cranberries, salt and pepper and cook stirring about 3 minutes.

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Add the ingredients from the pan to the bread pieces. Combine and add crisp pancetta pieces.

Taste for seasoning and adjust if necessary.

Add egg and mix well.

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Stuff hens with as much as you can get in each cavity. Pack them well. This is just about exactly the amount needed for 2 hens.

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Stick pieces of butter between the legs and body and between the wings and body. Place pancetta slices on top of hens – 2 for each.

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Place hens in the oven and immediately reduce the temperature to 350 degrees. Roast for about one hour and 20 minutes. The cooking time may vary with different ovens. This is only a guideline. Check your birds to make sure.

When finished, remove slices of pancetta from tops of hens . If you need more browning at the end of the cook time -  increase oven to 400, and put the hens back in the oven to finish. If needed, leave them until they are at the desired browning or for about 15 more min. The amount of time will depend on how brown they are, how brown you like them, and your oven.

Remove from oven and –IMPORTANT: let them sit for 20 minutes before cutting so they will re-absorb their own juices. Slice each hen down the middle to serve one half per person.

SAUCE:

Makes: About 1 1/2 cups – enough for 2 hens.

Prep: 10 minutes

Cook: 20-25 min.

Ingredients:

3 Tbsp. butter

1 Medium onion – chopped

1 Tbsp. Fresh Basil – chopped

1 Tbsp. Fresh Thyme – chopped

1/4 tsp. Ground Cloves

1/2 Tsp. Ground Cinnamon

2 Tsp. grated Orange Zest

1/2 c. Red Wine  + 1 Tbsp Red wine for mixing cornstarch

1 c. chicken broth

1 1/2 c. Fresh Cranberries

3 Tbsp. Sugar

2 Tsp. Balsamic Vinegar

1 Large Spring Fresh Rosemary

Instructions:

Cook onion in butter until tender.

Add basil, thyme, spices, orange zest.

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Mix together and add wine – cook down a 3-4 minutes.

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Add chicken broth – Cook about 8 minutes

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Add cranberries, sugar, and vinegar. Cook about 10 minutes. Watch the cranberries burst and bubble!

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Add Salt and pepper to taste.

Remove from heat.

Dissolve 1 tsp. cornstarch in the 1 Tbsp. Red Wine and add to the sauce. Stir in – it should thicken immediately. If sauce needs reheating before you use it – do not let it boil as it will thin. Just heat on low.

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Serve over or under your hens  – whatever your preference.

To Serve: I love this dish! It easily makes a romantic dinner for two. At the same time, it is a stunning holiday or dinner party dish. It almost screams “Build me a fire!” Soft candlelight wouldn’t hurt either. You need very little else with this one – perhaps a simple green vegetable. For the vino, I like a Valpolicella or a Barbera with this both in the sauce and for drinking.

For that one perfect evening, put these Stuffed Cornish Game Hens & Cranberry Sauce on your table and you’ll own ‘em!

PARLA COME MANGI!

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