March: If It’s Sunday, It’s Braciole!

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The Braciole, Braciole, and More Braciole Series – Part 1

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Buon giorno!

When I was growing up in our little house in Binghamton, NY, Braciole was a big deal. It wasn’t part of those random Tuesday night dinners with sauce. It was reserved for special family gatherings, usually on Sundays. If you’re Italian, you know what I mean – the kind that lasted for 3 hours.  Even as a child, I knew If It’s Sunday, It’s Braciole! My mother, Loretta, would make it a day ahead. She used lard in it, as so many really good cooks did in those days. Ah, everything tasted better then.

Because Braciole is so memorable to Italians and in Italian cooking, I decided that it warranted a series of posts- specifically three -  and not just one. Thus, The Braciole, Braciole, and More Braciole Series seemed inevitable! Is it THAT good? Yes, it is—and it’s also about that memory thing again. It is a part of the fond memories of most Italians who can recite who in their upbringing made the very best. In my case, it would definitely be my mother.

Ok – so you’re not Italian, and don’t have the inside skinny on what we’re talking about here. Braciole is a classic Italian meat dish – pronounced “bra-shol-e” – accent on the second syllable. It is probably found in every region in Italy in some form and using all different types of meat. In some regions, it is called “involtini”. The traditional Neapolitan preparation uses rolled beef – usually top round or flank steak. It is pounded thin, stuffed, rolled, tied with string, browned in olive oil, and then left to simmer in a beautiful sea of tomato sauce until done. That is the style we will use to begin our series. When the Braciole is ready to be served, each roll is removed from the sauce. The strings are clipped and discarded, and the rolls are cut into beautiful slices revealing the stuffing within.

The Braciole is often served with pasta. The pasta is served first, with the sliced meat usually following. One of my favorite ways to eat the Braciole in sauce is with polenta. The sauce is always quite flavorful and makes the polenta a beautiful receptacle for its red goodness – not to mention a lovely choice to have with the meat. That is the way you will see it in the series, but you can just as easily serve it with your favorite pasta.

Later in the series, we will take a turn with the Braciole and prepare it in a completely different way using pork tenderloin. This will be a complete departure from the slowly cooked Braciole in sauce. Stay tuned!

Loretta most often made one or two large rolls. In this series, we’ll make some smaller ones – so each person has his own “personal Braciole”. If you’d like to make the larger ones, you can, using the same instructions. Just use larger pieces of meat. The first recipe for Braciole is one my mother made often: Braciole Napoletana . A recipe for a simple tomato sauce for the “grand simmer” is included.

This is how it’s done:

BRACIOLE NAPOLETANA

(first recipe in the Braciole Series)

Makes: about 6 smaller individual ones or 1 or 2 large ones

Serves: 4 – 6

Prep: 30-35 min.

Cook: 2 1/2 hours

Ingredients

1 1/2 lb beef top round or flank steak – if meat is thick butterfly it or ask your butcher to do this. You’ll want thin slices of meat for rolling.

Olive Oil

1/2 c. Chopped Fresh Flat Leaf Parsley

1/2 c. Dry Breadcrumbs

1/2 c. Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Cheese or Grated Aged Provolone Cheese

2 tbsp. Garlic chopped finely

1/2 c. Pignolis – toast them a little

Salt and Pepper to taste

Toothpicks or string (butcher’s twine) to secure the rolls

3-4 Tbsp. Olive oil for browning

Tomato Sauce ( see recipe for this to follow)

Instructions

You’ll need a mallet or something heavy to pound the meat. This type of mallet comes with a side with sharp points for tenderizing.

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Lay the meat out on a board. Pound with a mallet to thin and beat with tenderizer side to further tenderize the meat.

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If making  smaller ones cut the meat into 5-6” slices.

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Rub each slice with olive oil. Follow with a sprinkle of chopped parsley, breadcrumbs, cheese, garlic, pignolis and salt and pepper to taste.

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Roll each slice vertically and secure with toothpicks or string.

You can use 2 or 3 strings to secure the smaller ones. If making large ones, use more string or toothpicks.

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Brown the rolls in olive oil. When finished – remove them and make the sauce in the same pan.

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TOMATO SAUCE

Prep: 5 min.

Cook: 2 1/2 hours for Braciole

Ingredients:

2 Tbsp. Olive oil

2 Cloves Garlic chopped

1 c. Red Wine

1 28 oz. Can San Marzano Tomatoes – give them a quick turn or 2 in the blender first

1 Tbsp. Tomato Paste (dilute the paste in 1/2 c. water – stir well until dissolved into the water)

2 Tbsp. Fresh Flat Leaf Parsley – chopped

1 Tbsp. Fresh Oregano leaves – chopped

2 Tbsp. Fresh Basil – chopped

1 Parmigiano-Reggiano Cheese Rind

Instructions:

Add Olive oil to the pan. Add garlic and cook a minute or two. Do not burn the garlic.

If using the sauce for Braciole, add the browned rolls back to the pan now.

With your heat turned up to medium high, add the red wine and scraped up the bits from the bottom of the pan.

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Turn the rolls to coat in the wine as it cooks down for a couple of minutes.

Add the tomatoes to the pan, followed by the paste in water, herbs, and rind.

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Cover the pan or pot and simmer for 1 1/2 hours . Stir gently occasionally to turn the rolls.

Uncover the pot for the last hour of cooking to thicken.

Remove rolls before serving and remove and discard toothpicks and strings. Slice the rolls thickly.

Serve with plenty of grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. The Braciole Napoletana is lovely served with pasta or polenta and your favorite vino rosso. For polenta see the post: Polenta – It’s So Corny

Be sure to look for the next post in this series!

PARLA COME MANGI!

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Easy Swiss Chard

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Greening Your Way to Good Health – Sicilian Style

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Buon giorno!

Growing up around an Italian kitchen, you are exposed to a lot of green things. Greens are probably stamped somewhere in your Italian DNA or it’s written somewhere that all kinds of greens will become a part of your daily diet. When I was little, I wasn’t fond of greens really. I was an expert at “depositing” them in my napkin undetected. However, there was one type that I did like – SWISS CHARD! Why? I suspect that it had something to do with the delicate nature of the leaves and the sweetness of it in general. We ate it by itself, in soups and stews, and with rice. As an adult, I now enjoy all kinds of greens, bitter and sweet, but SWISS CHARD is still my favorite.

What’s up with Swiss Chard? It is much like spinach in that you can eat it raw in a salad or cook it and serve it as a side dish. You can drop it into almost any soup and be happy you did. Unlike spinach, the chard has a sweeter flavor. Actually, SWISS CHARD is a cousin of the beet. When you cut into the stalks, they emit a sweet beet-like aroma. The chard is super rich in anti-oxidants, is said to be instrumental as an anti-inflammatory, and is nothing but good for you. Here is a really cool thing about SWISS CHARD: it helps with the control of blood sugar levels in the body which is an important factor for those with diabetes. How can you miss?

Here’s the beauty part: SWISS CHARD is found in several colors. Many times you’ll find the chard in its simple green form with whitish stalks. However, this sunny green veggie could win beauty contests in the vegetable category in its more colorful forms. Some stalks are simply glorious in their vivid red, white, and golden yellow hues. This chard is referred to as Rainbow Chard for exactly that reason – when bunched together, the stalks really look like a little rainbow. The red variety not only has bright red stalks, but also has red veins. The yellow follows suit with its golden veins and stalks. It is pretty enough to arrange for a table centerpiece –  simply gaw-geous! In all colors, the taste result is sweet and delicious. It does not disappoint.

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Easy cookin! SWISS CHARD may be a beauty – but she’s no diva! She definitely cooperates to provide an easy cooking experience.This is a vegetable that is tender in its natural state – so its leaves are delicious raw material in salads. Cooking it is a breeze. Today’s preparation is as simple as it gets by just giving it a quick saute in a pan. We’re going to give it a Sicilian twist using pignolis, raisins, Pecorino Romano Cheese,and a little red pepper. Cutting out the tougher spines is a good idea before cooking. One thing to remember is that the stalks are a little more firm than the tender leaves. I like to cook or steam them in a little water first before tossing them in the pan to “play catch-up” in tenderness to the leaves. That way it’s all finished at the same time.

Serving: This one’s a “no-brainer”. There must be hundreds of meats and fish – not to mention pastas – that beg to appear alongside this winning vegetable.  Everyone will love it and want it on their plates. It just has star quality. Now to prepare the red carpet!

SWISS CHARD

Serves: 4 as a side

Prep: 10 minutes

Cook: 5-7 minutes

Ingredients

1 Large Bunch Swiss Chard – cleaned and trimmed of any nasty spots (Prettier if you can find the colorful chard)

3 Tbsp. Olive Oil

2 Garlic Cloves chopped finely

1/4 c. Toasted Pignolis (pine nuts)

1/3 c. raisins – can be golden or dark (you can even use dried cranberries)

1/8 Tsp. Red Pepper Flakes

Shaved Pecorino Romano Cheese

Instructions:

Wash the chard and remove any dirt or sand. Cut off the stalks and chop them. Set them aside for a quick pre-cook.

Tear the leaves into pieces. Cut out & discard any thick spines.

Boil the chopped stems for 5 minutes until just fork tender. Drain them.

Put the olive oil and chopped garlic in a fry pan. Cook the garlic in the oil for a minute – do not burn.

With heat turned to med high – add the chard leaves and the drained chopped stalks. It will shrink down as it cooks.

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After about 4 minutes – add the pignolis, raisins, and red pepper flakes – toss and continue to cook. Total cooking should take 5-7 minutes. However, regardless of timing – cook until tender. The overall tenderness of your leaves and intensity of your heat may determine the exact time. In any case, the preparation is quick and easy, and the result just delicious. Think of what a healthy dish this is!

Top with shavings of Pecorino Romano Cheese and dive in!

PARLA COME MANGI!

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Carnevale Cake

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Schiacciata Alla Fiorentina

Carnevale Cake

 

Buon giorno!

Carnevale is a festive and happy time in Italy. It is kind of the “last hurrah” before the period of lenten fasts, abstinence, and repentance. Elaborate masks and even costumes are donned, and the celebration begins early and leaves late – lasting for weeks and with the final big splash on Shrove Tuesday, the day before Ash Wednesday. Carnevale brings many traditional dishes with it each year. One of these is a dessert cake, CARNEVALE CAKE  or SCHIACCIATA ALLA FIORENTINA. It is absolutely addictive in flavor and amazingly easy to make.

About Carnevale: Perhaps the most well known festivals are held in Venice, home to many of the beautiful masks we associate with this event, and Viareggio in Northern Tuscany, famous for its parades and beautifully detailed floats. The official mask of Carnevale in Viareggio is “ Burlamacco”, the clown who pilfers pieces from the other character masks and costumes to make one very odd looking and sometimes scary fellow. There is even a hotel named after him. Carnevale is considered a major event in Italy. Everyone, from children to the very old, participates in some way.

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The Food of Carnevale: As with every other feast day or celebratory event in Italy, Carnevale seems to have its own set of foods that are associated with it. Every region has a special dish or dishes that they prepare to mark the celebration and especially on Shrove Tuesday, the last day of fun. As with other regional dishes, you’ll find similarities and differences in some recipes from region to region.

Polenta (a form of cornmeal mush) is a favorite in Italian households on Shrove Tuesday here in the US and in Italy. There will be some variation in how the polenta is made from region to region. Italians prepare it in all sorts of ways. In the south, most notably in Campania, the Napoletanas like to serve it with a beautiful red tomato sauce containing sausage and tiny meatballs. They serve it on a large board or platter and everyone eats from it. This is the way, my family enjoyed it every Shrove Tuesday for as long as I can remember. In my early days, my father, Attilio, would stand me up on a chair and let me stir the polenta with a special endlessly long wooden spoon – one of the most vivid of my childhood memories. For two posts on polenta try these other links on my site:

 POLENTA – IT”S SO CORNY 

and also

SERVING POLENTA

Smashed, crushed, and squeezed: Whatever am I getting at here now? And no, it is not a new way to order hash browns at the Waffle House. Schiacciata translates to “smashed, crushed, squeezed” and a variety of other words of a similar nature. What exactly are we smashing, crushing or squeezing? Not a thing really! This is a very typical stew you find yourself in with so many Italian words and translations. As my mother, Loretta, used to say, “It sounds better in Italian.” She had a point.

The many faces of Schiacciata Alla Fiorentina:  This Schiacciata or CARNEVALE CAKE takes many forms in Italy. It is mainly a Tuscan idea, specifically Florentine. You’ll find it as a bread, a focaccia, a stuffed bread, a cake, and even a pizza. None of these have much similarity in preparation to one another.

Today’s Schiacciata at Linda’s Italian Table is most definitely a cake. It is a beautiful and simple cake to prepare (all in one bowl) and is also an example of the very popular and much requested Olive Oil Cake. The olive oil is not only good for you, but it also makes this cake irresistibly moist – giving it a an almost unique consistency. I have used lemon in this one: both extract and zest to give it a VERY definite citrus flavor. The special surprise is the addition of Candied Lemon Peel.I have long been a fan of the homemade candied peel. It has so many uses in baking and in cooking savory dishes. It also is delicious and different served at the end of a meal with espresso for just a little sweet treat. You can omit the Candied Lemon Peel entirely, if you wish, or use store bought – but OH the difference the homemade version makes to this cake – just can’t describe! I recommend an easy and fun recipe for making your own Candied Lemon Peel just a click away on my post “NO NEED TO PUCKER”.  This beautiful Candied Peel lasts a long time in a sealed container at room temperature or you can freeze it.

Trust me – they won’t be able to stop eating this one!!

CARNEVALE CAKE

(Schiacciata Alla Fiorentina)

Makes: one 9” round cake

Prep: 15 minutes

Cook: 35 minutes

Ingredients:

1 1/2 c. Flour

1 c. Ground Almonds

1 c. sugar

2 tsp. baking powder

1 c. Olive Oil

3/4 c. whole milk

Zest of a fresh lemon

1 Tbsp. Lemon Extract

1 c. chopped Candied Lemon Peel (optional) For a homemade version: see my post: NO NEED TO PUCKER

Powdered sugar for dusting

Instructions:

Grease a 9 “ spring form pan.

Put whole almonds through a food processor to grind them finely

Mix together in a large bowl: flour, ground almonds, sugar, and baking powder.

Add olive oil and milk. Mix together until incorporated.

Add the extract and lemon zest and mix well.

Add the chopped candied lemon peel, if using it.

Pour into your prepared pan, and bake at 350 degrees until golden and set in the center – about 35 minutes depending on your oven. Test with a knife – if it comes out clean – you’re done!

Release and remove the side of the spring form pan and cool. Dust with sifted powdered sugar.

Serve: You will love this beautiful lemony CARNEVALE CAKE. You might enjoy it with a glass of Limoncello and an espresso! Believe me – there is nothing lovelier than this cake – especially as your swan song before Lent.

Just one more thing: Don’t forget your mask!

PARLA COME MANGI!

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Spinach with Eggs

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Spinaci Con Uova

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Buon giorno!

I’m not usually a believer in coincidences – but this is a coincidence. It must appear that I have been preoccupied with working on recipes containing eggs lately. The truth is, I haven’t been. It is a coincidence. Really!  No joke!  You’ll understand when you take a closer look at this one: SPINACH WITH EGGS or SPINACI CON UOVA. This is my version of this classic dish from the Emilia-Romagna region.

Where? The Emilia-Romagna region of Italy is located South of the Po River extending to Tuscany. This is the area considered to be the heart of Italy in terms of many ingredients that we associate with the finest in Italian cooking: pasta fresca, Prosciutto di Parma, Mortadella, Balsamico Invecchiato, and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Some of the most studied of Italian chefs earn their stripes at the cooking schools in this region. I salivate just thinking about this region and all that it offers. I offer a cooking class on this region, and I am always excited to bring the very special dishes and ingredients of the area to students. Some are seeing and tasting them for the first time. JOY!

Back to the egg thing: So yes, this dish contains a poached or fried egg, and you’ll be glad it did. It lends the protein to the dish and makes it heartier- not to mention rich and delicious.

Brunch! This dish can be dinner for sure. However, it offers an option for a splendid brunch. The fresh baby spinach, besides being iron-rich, remains the brightest green in this recipe and combines with the grated cheese and spices to produce a gorgeous sight on the plate and an impressive gastronomic experience in your mouth. When you break the yolk and let the beautiful yellow velvet flow “like the Po” into the spinach, you won’t be able to resist diving into this little nest. It is sooo delicious – incredibly quick and easy, and tastes like so much more than the time you spent making it.

To pancetta or not to pancetta… The pancetta (Italian bacon) is optional. It does present tremendous flavor, a lovely crunch, and looks really cute accessorizing the top of this little pyramid – BUT – if you prefer to keep this a vegetarian experience, it will not cause an international incident! There is enough flavor in the dish without the pancetta to offer you a memorable experience – though not celestial. My preference is always to go with the pancetta or pork ingredient in any dish, as it really adds tremendous flavor like no other.

A note on finding pancetta for those who are less familiar – These days, it is commonly sold in the deli meat section of your grocer. You can ask to have it sliced for you just like you do for ham, turkey, roast beef etc.

The dish! This is how it goes…

SPINACH WITH EGGS

(SPINACI CON UOVA)

Serves: 2

Prep: 5 minutes

Cook: 35-40 minutes

Ingredients:

1 Tbsp. Olive Oil

2 Slices Pancetta (optional)

2 Tbsp. Butter

1 lb. Baby Spinach

1/8 Tsp. Kosher Salt

Some Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Pinch of Fresh Nutmeg

1/8 Tsp. Red Pepper Flakes

Quick squeeze of fresh lemon

4 Tbsp. Heavy Cream

1/4 c. Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese + a little extra to sprinkle at the end

2 Poached or Fried Eggs

Instructions:

Fry pancetta in the olive oil until crisp and remove it and reserve for later.

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In the same pan – melt the butter and add the spinach in thirds.

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It will look like a lot of spinach – but it shrinks as it wilts and will reduce in bulk.

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Cook until water evaporates.

Add the salt, pepper, nutmeg, and hot pepper.

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Cook on medium for about 10 minutes. Stir occasionally.

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During the cooking, give the spinach just a quick squeeze of a fresh lemon.

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Add the cream and stir.

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Add the Parmigiano and cook a couple more minutes, stirring.

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Cook the eggs.

Plate the spinach. Add an egg on the top and a piece of the reserved crispy pancetta. Sprinkle the egg with a little Parmigiano-Reggiano.

OK! Now you are ready for an incredibly tasty dish of SPINACH WITH EGGS for two. Add a chilled New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and you have yourself a BRUNCH! (A beautiful breakfast in bed option for Valentine’s Day, maybe?) Yeah!

PARLA COME MANGI!

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