| Linda's Italian Table

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Food Photos By Tommy Hanks Photography

Filed Under: Recipes of the Mo, Side Dishes, Vegetarian · Tagged With: baby artichokes, baked artichokes, Italian, italian artichokes, stuffed artichokes

Risotto Alla Milanese

April 23, 2012 by Linda 2 Comments

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LA DUCHESSA – The Play’s the Thing!

Buon giorno!

A well made risotto is one of the wonders of Italian cuisine. Some like to use Carnaroli Rice – some like Arborio Rice – some like Vialone Nano, all short grain varieties. No matter which you choose, there is no denying that risotto is a memorable dish. Of all the different recipes for risotto, one sparkles for me like a perfectly cut canary gem. That is RISOTTO ALLA MILANESE. I like to give things names, so I shall call this one “La Duchessa”!

Whether served along side another dish or on its own, this risotto is a star. It is most often thought of as an accompaniment to the great Milanese favorite, Osso Buco. In my way of thinking, there is no better pairing of passion in all of Italian cuisine than this one. These star crossed lovers are symbiotic and play off one another in a perfectly directed one act play on the plate. Not only do the flavors of these two dishes compliment one another, but the visual is tantalizing. That stately veal shank prominently floating like an ocean liner, adorned with the tiny “flags” of gremolata, is only enhanced by the sunlit presence of this golden risotto. The colors are shockingly vivid. The aroma seduces as the sirens of mythology with flavors delivering a celestial triumph. Who could resist such splendor?

RISOTTO ALLA MILANESE dates as far back as the 1500’s from the Northern Italian region of Lombardia and is credited to the beautiful city of Milan. Its origins are said to come from the Sabbath Rice of the Venetian Jews.

Its simplicity makes it special: La Duchessa (the duchess) indeed! While it may smack of opulence and pomp, this risotto only appears theatrical and dramatic. It actually plays out simply, with very few ingredients, each significant to its elegant nature. When unnecessary extras are added to this brilliant dish, it falls flat. As always, the Italians know best – stick to simplicity, follow the script, and it will not disappoint.

Why the golden color? The beautiful golden color comes from the addition of Saffron threads.

But why use them? In centuries past, much of the food of Milan was actually prepared with flakes of real gold. It was considered a mark of wealth and position to use gold in food. In modern days, real gold being cost prohibitive, has been replaced with Saffron which emits the golden hue without breaking the bank! The Saffron threads are transformative to this dish.

Something different: It is not uncommon to use marrow in this risotto which brings even more richness. The marrow is the character no one expects, but provides the most surprise when introduced. Its use is optional but is another reason why the dish plays so well with the lovely marrow bones of its fellow Thespian in this performance, Osso Buco.

My preferences: I choose Arborio Rice because it is just easier – cooks faster and does the job every time. Very often, when I make risotto, I like to use Dry Vermouth instead of wine. I just like the flavor. This is one of those recipes where I appreciate the Vermouth a little more. I also like the use of shallots rather than onion in this one. The shallots are mild and sweet. For me, the flavors should all blend in this risotto, without any one of them taking center stage. Think of it as an “ensemble cast”.

Act I The players enter…

RISOTTO ALLA MILANESE

Serves: 4-6

Prep: 8 minutes

Cook: 20-30 minutes

Ingredients

2 1/2 c. Arborio Rice

5 Tbsp. Butter

1 Tbsp. Olive Oil

1 Whole Shallot – chopped

(1 oz. bone marrow – optional)

1/2 c. Dry Vermouth or Dry White Wine

6 c. chicken broth – warmed (sometimes you need a little more so plan an extra cup just in case)

Large Pinch of Saffron threads

2 Tbsp. Unsalted butter

2/3 c. Parmigiano-Reggiano Cheese

Fresh Parsley for garnish

Instruction

Keep broth warm in pan on the stove. Remember, to always used warm/hot broth to your risotto so that the temperature of the rice does not drop.

Crush the Saffron threads between your fingers and add them to the warm broth to dissolve. Don’t worry if they don’t dissolve completely.

In a large wide pan, melt butter and add chopped shallot. Cook about 3 minutes.

Then add your rice and cook, stirring, another 5 minutes.

Pour in the Vermouth or wine and cook another minute or two letting it cook down some.

You will now begin the technique of adding your warm broth slowly to the risotto pan, first with one cup, letting it absorb – and then slowly by about 1/2 cup as each previous addition of broth is absorbed by the rice.

It is important to do this slowly, letting each addition of broth cook in before adding the next. Continue to do this until you use all or most of your broth and your risotto is tender and creamy.

When the risotto is just tender to the bite, turn off your heat. Let it sit for a minute or two and then add the butter, letting it melt in, followed by the grated cheese. Garnish with a little fresh Flat Leaf Parsley.

APPLAUSE!

The players exit and the curtain closes…

PARLA COME MANGI!

Comments are welcome in the “Speak Your Mind Area” beneath this post online.

Food Photos By Tommy Hanks Photography

Filed Under: Risotto, Side Dishes · Tagged With: Italian, Osso Buco, risotto, saffron dishes

Osso Buco

April 16, 2012 by Linda 1 Comment

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Finding Ecstasy in Bones with Holes -

Buon giorno!

The famous Northern Italian OSSO BUCO (seen also as Osso Bucco), is one of those most revered among regional dishes. This magnificent dish hails from the region of Lombardia. The beautiful and cosmopolitan city of Milan is often given credit for it, and you’ll often find it as OSSO BUCO ALLA MILANESE, reflecting the city’s influence. It is an old dish that dates back to the late 19th century and is one of those peasant dishes that has so much flavor you can literally almost taste it in your dreams. It is a braised meat dish – more specifically a cross cut veal shank that is browned and then simmered for hours, a giving forth a wealth of flavor and offering one of the delicacies of the “Italian Table – the marrow bone.

I first heard of this dish when I was a child after my parents had returned from a trip to Italy. My mother, who had a curiosity and interest in Italian regional food, was especially excited about this recipe. It was not something that her family or my father’s Neapolitan family had made. She enjoyed it in Italy and talked endlessly about it. Ironically, it was one of the first Italian dishes I served to guests shortly after I was married. It is a simple dish, full of simple ingredients, each a singular movement of aromatic splendor, coming together to complete a sonata of flavor that plays on in one’s memory. OSSO BUCO is a triumph!

Strangely, I had not made it in a long while. A couple of months ago, I had the pleasure of enjoying a beautiful preparation of this dish at the home of our good friends, Peter and Katrina Costa. Katrina’s Osso Buco was so lovely and hit all the right notes which continued to sweetly replay in my mind for days afterward. It brought back so many delicious memories that I knew I had to bring this classic dish to your attention.

Things that make this dish so special: I already mentioned the marrow but it deserves a revisit. Generally the shanks are cut to about 1 1/2 inches revealing a round and generous bone filled with succulent marrow. This marrow mingles with the sauce to give it a rich flavor. In “knowing” restaurants, this dish is served with a special narrow fork that fits perfectly into the “hole in the bone” to dig for the delicious marrow treasure.

The classic technique for the dish is braising – a method seemingly invented for it.The meat is browned and then simmered with an assembly of fresh aromatics. It is one of those recipes that MUST be prepared a day ahead for the flavors to bond. Don’t you love it when that happens?

Each lucky guest receives one veal shank, the perfect size for each person. The shank is topped with gremolata, a fresh mixture of parsley, garlic, lemon zest, and sometimes anchovy. It is sprinkled on top like fairy dust giving the meat and sauce a touch of brightness and beauty.

There are several ways to serve it. Some like it with mashed potatoes – some like pasta. The classic accompaniment, Risotto Alla Milanese, a beautiful gold colored risotto, kissed with saffron and simply prepared, seems almost divinely inspired. This is the way I like it best. Watch for this Risotto recipe here on the blog next week!

OSSO BUCO

Serves: 4

Prep: 20 minutes

Cook: 2 hrs. 15 min.

Ingredients

4 Veal Shanks (shins) cross cut with the bone left in

Flour for dredging with some salt and pepper

3 Tbsp.Olive oil

2 Tbsp. Butter

5 Baby Carrots – chopped finely

1 Stalk Celery – chopped finely

1 onion – chopped finely

3 Cloves fresh garlic – chopped finely

1 c. Dry Vermouth or Dry White Wine

1 Tbsp. Marjoram leaves – chopped

2 Tbsp. Fresh Flat Leaf Parsley

6 San Marzano Tomatoes – from the can without juices – tomatoes only chopped coarsely

1/2 c. Chicken Broth

1 Squeeze of fresh lemon juice

A slice of lemon to throw in the pot

Salt & Pepper to taste

Instructions

Veal shanks ready for this dish can be found in many markets now. If you can’t find them, ask your butcher to get them for you.

*Make this dish one day ahead.

Dredge the shanks in flour seasoned with salt and pepper.

Brown the shanks in the oil and butter – a couple of minutes each side. Then remove the meat to a platter and reserve.

In the same pot, cook the chopped carrots, celery, and onion for about 5 minutes.

Add the garlic and cook another minute being careful not to burn it.

Place the veal shanks back in the pot on top of the vegetables and add the wine, scraping the bits off of the bottom.

Add the herbs to the pot.

Chop the tomatoes coarsely with a knife and fork, and add them to the pot. Mix them in.

Pour in the chicken broth and add the squeeze of fresh lemon juice and the lemon slice.

Add a little salt and pepper to taste. Cover the pot and place in a 350 degree oven for 2 hours. A couple of times during the cooking process, carefully turn the veal shanks over in the sauce.

When finished, cool and put the pot into the refrigerator until the next day. Before serving heat on top of the stove or in the oven.

Serve one veal shank per person with a sprinkle of Gremolata. Some like to mix the Gremolata into the sauce. This is fine but sprinkling it on the top makes for a prettier presentation.

GREMOLATA

Mix together and sprinkle on top of each serving:

grated zest of 1 lemon

2 Cloves fresh garlic – chopped finely

1/2 c. Fresh Flat Leaf Parsley – chopped

1-2 Anchovy fillets – chopped finely

The OSSO BUCO can actually be served with either white or red wine depending on your preference. If you choose white, select something dry like a Langhe Arneis. My personal preference is the red – an Amarone Valpolicella Ripassa, or Barbera d’Alba. All of these wines are from the North, where this dish originates, and any one of them would be a match made in heaven for this beautiful dish.

Watch for the next recipe “RISOTTO ALLA MILANESE” – If ever a dish had a soul mate, this one is it!

PARLA COME MANGI!

Comments are welcome in the “Speak Your Mind Area” beneath this post online.

Food Photos By Tommy Hanks Photography

Filed Under: Meat · Tagged With: Italian, veal dish, veal shanks

Sicilian Blood Orange Salad with Shrimp

April 8, 2012 by Linda 2 Comments

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Insalata di Aranci Pattuali e Gamberi

Buon giorno!

It’s funny how sometimes the simplest of dishes can really pack a whallop! SICILIAN BLOOD ORANGE SALAD WITH SHRIMP is one of those. Whether you make this beautiful salad with or without the shrimp, it is a visual paradise as well as a temptress for the palate.

Tradition: This gorgeous salad has its roots in Sicily, specifically Palermo, among the HUGE oranges grown there. Everything in Sicily seems bigger, brighter, bolder. The Orange Salad, using any type of orange, is almost a staple for the Sicilian table. It is very common to find oranges of any variety at the table at Easter in many Italian homes. We always had them in our Easter Antipasto, sliced as an accompaniment to the Basket Cheese, Mozzarella, and spring onions. When Blood Oranges are out of reach, any wonderful orange can step in as an “under study”. Navel Oranges are nice and sweet and offer a great alternative to the Blood Oranges if you can’t find them.

However, when you can get them, Blood Oranges with their remarkable color and distinctive taste are a perfect choice, I think, to make the Orange Salad a little brighter, somewhat different, and definitely more special. These oranges fall somewhere between a pomelo and a tangerine and can be a little tart. Some say they even taste a little on the raspberry side rather than orange. If you are unfamiliar with this variety, take a look at this:

Now you understand why they call them “Blood Oranges”. The meat of the orange is red. Like much of Sicilian cuisine, the Arab influence is present in these oranges, as most agree that they brought them along for the ride during the “conquering years”. These succulent crimson delights, with their antioxidant properties, have been grown in Sicilian groves since the 18th century and are the numero uno of oranges in all of Italy.They happen to be seasonal right now, and it is a perfect time to think about serving them in all sorts of ways.

Unconventional: The traditional version of this recipe is made without shrimp and is served as a side dish. It pairs especially well with almost any grilled meat or fish. As for the addition of the shrimp – I just like ‘em! This salad is a winner in my book either way. When using the shrimp, note that I like to grill or roast them for much better flavor. For today, let’s choose a different path and use the shrimp which kind of dress up the salad and make it a meal, if you wish. YES, it’s one of those dishes that just begs to be served On the Patio!! You must know how I love those!

What’s the big deal? OK – so why make such a big hoo-ha out of oranges on a plate? Let me clue you in on a little secret: the Sicilians knew what they were doing with these oranges. It isn’t only the oranges that knock this one out of the park – although they help. Once again, it is the combination of select fresh and wonderful ingredients, simple and basic on their own, that come together and to pack a major punch for your taste buds. Something happens when the oranges mingle with the red onions, capers, pignolis, fennel, basil, olives and that most brilliant of ingredients – a good Extra Virgin Olive Oil. This is the time to get out the best Extra Virgin you can afford.

Make this dish fresh, just prior to serving. Offered as a colorful antipasto, a salad, or the main event, this SICILIAN BLOOD ORANGE SALAD WITH SHRIMP or Insalata di Aranci Pattuali e Gamberi is one amazing dish!

SICILIAN BLOOD ORANGE SALAD WITH SHRIMP

Serves: 4

Prep: 35 minutes

Ingredients

1 lb. Large or Extra Large Shrimp, peeled, cleaned (optional)

5 1/2 Blood Oranges (or Navel Oranges if you can’t find Blood Oranges) – peeled and sliced

1 Fresh Fennel Bulb sliced (See the post: Makes Me Want to Cluck for the “how to” in slicing fennel)

1 Red Onion Sliced thinly

Handful of Black Olives, Kalamatas, Cerignola Blacks, or Gaetas

2-3 Tbsp. Capers – rinsed and drained

1/4 c. Toasted Pignolis (pine nuts)

Coarse Salt and Pepper to taste

Fresh Basil – Chopped

The best Extra Virgin Olive Oil you can afford – time for the good one!

Instructions

Toss the shrimp in some olive oil, add salt and pepper. You can even save 1/2 orange and squeeze the juice over the shrimp if you like! Then grill or roast the shrimp – a couple of minutes each side. Shrimp should be crunchy not dry. Don’t overcook. Set aside to cool. You can do this part ahead, if you want.

Arrange the sliced oranges on the plate.

Follow with the sliced fresh fennel and sliced red onion.

Next – scatter the olives and the capers on the top.

Sprinkle the toasted pignolis over.

Add salt and pepper.

Garnish the top with chopped fresh basil.

Drizzle with that beautiful Extra Virgin Olive Oil!

For a beautiful pairing: Try a Langhe Arneis with this! My new favorite out there is: Donna Anita Langhe Arneis DOC 2010 from the Piedmont. A Sauvignon Blanc would be nice as well.

PARLA COME MANGI!

Filed Under: On the Patio, Salad · Tagged With: blood orange salad, Fennel, Italian, italian salad, Sicilian orange salad, Sicilian salad

April: Asparagus Frittata with Leeks and Ricotta

April 1, 2012 by Linda 2 Comments

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Buon giorno!

Frittatas are funny little “creatures”. You can adapt them to serve at almost any time of day or likewise for almost any need at your table. This ASPARAGUS FRITTATA WITH LEEKS & RICOTTA is no different in this regard and will definitely be a crowd pleaser. It is just as simple to prepare as any frittata – but this one is a little bit different in its buttery and creamy flavor. The addition of buttery leeks and creamy ricotta is responsible for this.

The resulting frittata is a delicious spring delight, bursting with goodness and flavor, largely from the vegetables themselves. It is a first choice, for sure, for breakfast, brunch, and lunch. However, it is a great selection as an appetizer cut into smaller pieces and served cold or room temperature as a finger food.

A word about the ingredients:

I suggest using good whole milk ricotta for this, as you are entrusting the ricotta to make this a rich and creamy frittata. You might want to mash it with a fork first.

As for the asparagus I usually like to trim my asparagus, but it is optional. It’s probably a good idea if it is especially thick and fibrous.

The leeks in this dish are an amazing addition.

There aren’t many things in life more tasty than a buttered leek! However, when cooking with leeks, it is important to clean them properly and thoroughly. This is not a difficult thing. It just takes an extra moment or two. Cut off the root end and also trim off the leek where it begins to go bright green. For this dish, you’ll want to slice them up and drop them all in a bowl of cold water. Swish them around with your hands until any sand is loosened from them. Drain them and rinse again if needed. That’s it!

So simple – you just won’t believe it!

ASPARAGUS FRITTATA WITH LEEKS & RICOTTA

Serves: 6 (definitely more if used as an appetizer)

Prep: 40 minutes

Cook: 10 minutes

Ingredients

1 bunch asparagus – trim the ends and peel if needed. Drizzle with olive oil, add salt and pepper, and roast at 400 degrees until tender – about 10-12 min. depending on the thickness of your asparagus.Set aside.

3 Leeks (About 2 1/2 c. sliced) rinsed and cleaned of any sand

2 Tbsp. Butter melted

1 Tbsp. Olive Oil

1 Whole shallot chopped (that means use the whole bulb with the multiple cloves)

2 Tbsp. Butter

1 Tbsp. Olive Oil

12 Large Eggs – beaten

1/4 c. Heavy Cream

Salt and pepper to taste

3/4 c. Grated or shredded Pecorino Cheese

1 Tbsp. chopped fresh Rosemary

1 c. Whole Milk Ricotta – mashed a little with a fork to soften

Extra Virgin Olive Oil for drizzling

Instructions

After roasting the asparagus, cut off the ends leaving the spear at about 3-4 inches long. Chop the ends into pieces about an inch long. Keep the spears and the chopped ends separate.

Leeks: slice off and discard the root. Cut the bright green part off and discard. Cut the remaining leek in sliced rounds, drop in a bowl with cold water and swish around to clean the sand from the rounds. Rinse again if needed and drain off the water. Pat the leeks dry.

Toss the leeks in the melted butter and oil, add salt and pepper and roast at 400 or saute, if preferred until tender.

Put butter and oil in a saute pan, heat and add chopped shallots. Cook until tender – about 5 minutes.

Add the cream, salt, pepper, cheese, and Rosemary to the beaten eggs and mix together and pour into a large oiled fry pan.

Distribute the cooked leeks and chopped roasted asparagus throughout the eggs in the pan and press them in a little to make them sink.

Spoon dollops of ricotta into the eggs all around. Do not mix together. Just let the dollops sit there.

Place the roasted asparagus spears around the surface of the frittata in a decorative manner that suits you.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Cook the frittata on the top of the stove at medium to medium high until partially set. The bottom and sides should be set with the middle runny.

Place the fry pan in the preheated oven and bake until set in the middle – about 10 minutes.

Slide the frittata out of the pan onto a plate. It should come right out with a little nudge from a spatula. Drizzle your best Extra Virgin Olive Oil over the top before serving.

Enjoy this ASPARAGUS FRITTATA WITH LEEKS & RICOTTA with a crisp white wine, like Donna Anita Langhe Arneis (my new favorite Italian white) or a Sauvignon Blanc, or as an appetizer, with almost any cocktail. And yes – it is one of those dishes that will make you want to race for a seat “On the Patio” to fully enjoy its fresh spring goodness. See you there!

PARLA COME MANGI!

Comments are welcome in the “Speak Your Mind Area” beneath this post online.