Pizza Bianca With Three Cheeses

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White Pizza6

Buon giorno!

So, it’s late in the day, and the sunlight gives way to shadows, and I’m in a pizza kind of mood. I look to PIZZA BIANCA (White Pizza) as one of my favorites requiring no sauce, no meat, and a minimum of fuss. PIZZA BIANCA can take on many forms. It can be just a crust with oil and herbs or you can add a little cheese and maybe an olive or two. I especially like PIZZA BIANCA WITH THREE CHEESES because it has all of the elements of a good PIZZA BIANCA plus a little more.

This pizza is especially cool because it has so many uses. Aside from being another great pizza choice, it can be an appetizer when cut into small pieces, an accompaniment to your antipasti, or a more interesting substitute for bread at a meal when cut up and served in a basket– especially On the Patio -  where I love to hang out for meals whenever weather permits.

It is so darn simple you won’t believe it and still retains a complexity with the choice of ingredients and flavors. Your average “garden variety” PIZZA BIANCA usually “pals up” with olive oil and herbs. This PIZZA BIANCA WITH THREE CHEESES runs up the ladder a little with, what I think, is a great mix of ingredients.

Roasted garlic – I start with the usual layer of olive oil and follow with roasted garlic mashed and spread out over the dough. If you are familiar with roasted garlic, you know how mild, nutty, and inoffensivo the garlic becomes when roasted in the oven prior to use. This is an easy step, which I describe in the recipe, and kicks this pizza into the stratosphere.

Cheeses – For my 3 cheeses, I selected some of my favorites: fresh mozzarella for it’s mild, creaminess, Parmigiano-Reggiano for a little sweet nuttiness (and also because I can’t imagine pizza without it), and Ricotta Salata for it’s salty flavor to balance the other milder cheeses. Also, the Ricotta Salata tends to hold its form a little more than the others and will stand out when the other cheeses melt together.

Other stuff – Sometimes I like to add Black Olives or Kalamata Olives sliced in half. They add a little brininess to the pizza. I love to sprinkle fresh Rosemary from the garden on this pizza. With the olive oil and garlic, the Rosemary is like the third of Three Tenors which make this pizza sing. I also like a little Red Pepper Flakes scattered over the top for some zip! Last but not least – the ingredient that ties it all together  – a drizzle of good Extra Virgin Olive Oil before serving. What else could you possibly need?

The dough -  Many people like to buy their dough. I know – it’s easy. If you’d like to make your own dough with a VERY easy recipe, check my post: PIZZA THAT’S AMORE

This is my mother, Loretta’s, pizza dough – with a little tweak from me. It is easy to make. You can make it ahead and freeze it. I like to have a couple of loaves in the freezer at all times so I can have pizza any time I like.

I always make my pizzas on the grill. If you add some wood chips to your grilling process, you get that beautiful wood fire flavor on your crust that is known around the world as the signature Napoletana style of producing a great pizza. Honestly, if you have enough wood in there, your flavor will not be much different from pizza cooked in those $15,000. Ferrara ovens that are legendary.  You can’t achieve that indoors in the oven. Pizza made on the grill is also less messy than indoors. For a tutorial on this process, check out my post: PIZZA ON THE GRILL. 

Let’s fire up that grill!

PIZZA BIANCA WITH THREE CHEESES

Makes: 1 Medium Pizza

Prep: 40 minutes

Cook: About 5 minutes on a very hot grill

Ingredients

1 Loaf Pizza Dough – For an easy delicious recipe see: PIZZA THAT’S AMORE 

1 Large Bulb Roasted garlic (instructions below)

Olive Oil

Salt and Pepper

1 8 oz. ball Fresh Mozzarella Cheese

Lots of Parmigiano-Reggiano Cheese – about 1/4 – 1/3 cup

1/8 lb. Ricotta Salata

1/2 c. Black Olives or Kalamata Olives sliced in 1/2

Pinch of Red Pepper Flakes

Fresh Rosemary

Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Instructions

Prepare your pizza dough.

Roast your whole bulb of garlic: Cut off the pointed end of the bulb. Slice it all the way across so that the tops of the cloves are exposed. Place it in foil and drizzle with olive oil. Seal up the foil and roast in a 400 degree oven for about 35 minutes. Cool down before handling.

Roll out your pizza dough – Rub the top with a few drops of olive oil.

Take the roasted garlic bulb, turn it upside down, and squeeze out the soft roasted cloves onto the oiled dough. They should slide right out. Then mash them and spread them out on the dough with a fork.

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Add a little salt and pepper.

Slice the mozzarella thinly and distribute it around the top of the pizza.

Add the Parmigiano-Reggiano.

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Shave the Ricotta Salata and add to the pizza. A vegetable peeler is a good tool for this.

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Don’t overload your pizza – especially this one.

Distribute your olives next. Then add the red pepper flakes and as much fresh Rosemary as you like.

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Cook your pizza as you like or use the grilling method: PIZZA ON THE GRILL

When your pizza is finished, give it a generous drizzle of Extra Virgin Olive Oil.

Enjoy your PIZZA BIANCA WITH THREE CHEESES with your cocktails, your dinner, or as an appetizer. It pairs beautifully with a lighter red wine like a Valpolicella or even a Barbera. The roasted garlic and earthy cheeses seem to beg for your favorite vino rosso.

PARLA COME MANGI!

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Aunt Lizzie’s Baked Zucchini With Tomatoes

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Buon giorno!

From the recesses of our memories, tiny sparks occasionally escape like little butterflies, seemingly insignificant. They are awakened by a sound, an aroma, a flicker of color or light, a flash of a partial dream from the previous night’s slumber perhaps. How often I have sensed these flickers and flashes with such fondness and often joy, many of them attached to a food experience from long ago. It is that way with today’s post on AUNT LIZZIE’S BAKED ZUCCHINI WITH TOMATOES.

When I was very young, many of my summer vacations were spent on the North Shore of Massachusetts, known as Cape Ann. My Aunt Lizzie and Uncle John had a place there where all the family would gather for endless days and nights of lazy shell collecting, ball playing, swimming, night time beach barbeques, etc.. There were always plenty of cousins to play and roam the beaches with. It was an easier simpler time – no rules, no shoes, and not a lot of hovering parenting!

Usually before we embarked for the beach, I spent time at Aunt Lizzie and Uncle John’s small farm in Weston, outside of Boston. Uncle John had chickens and an “egg route”. I went with him daily to deliver the fresh warm eggs, freshly laid, to his many local customers. That task occupied most of the morning, and when we returned Aunt Lizzie usually sent me to their extensive vegetable garden with a basket to fill with whatever caught my eye for our lunch. I always overfilled the basket,and because everything looked  so good, it was difficult to decide. The usual suspects were fresh corn, tomatoes, cucumbers, blueberries, and zucchini. Aunt Lizzie then prepared an incredible feast from that basket to be eaten on a picnic table outdoors in the orchard along with her “famous” ice tea which knew no earthly competition.

zucchini in the garden

One of my favorite things from that bounty was AUNT LIZZIE’S BAKED ZUCCHINI – simple, rustic, and oh so fresh. Zucchini is notoriously lacking in much of its own flavor – but comes to life when enhanced with other more flavorful fresh ingredients. In those days, Aunt Lizzie used fresh tomatoes from the garden for this recipe and plenty of fresh herbs. She fashioned this amazing dish in no time at all. Fresh, vine ripe tomatoes are, of course, always preferable, but canned San Marzanos work quite well also.

This one is a keeper!

AUNT LIZZIE’S BAKED ZUCCHINI WITH TOMATOES

Serves: 6-8

Prep: 15 minutes

Bake: 30 –35 minutes or until tender

Ingredients:

2 Medium Fresh Zucchini

Olive Oil

4 Fresh Peeled  mashed Very Ripe Tomatoes or 4-8 Canned San Marzano Tomatoes only – no juices from the can

3 cloves Fresh Garlic – chopped finely

2 Tbsp. Fresh Oregano Leaves – chopped

2-3 Tbsp. Fresh Flat Leaf Parsley – chopped

Lots of grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, Grana Padano, or Montasio Cheese

Kosher Salt and Pepper to taste.

Extra Virgin Olive Oil for drizzling

Instructions

Peel both zucchini  and slice in half.

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Turn on end and slice again from top to bottom and scoop out the seeds (discard seeds) so you have what looks like boats.

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Place them in baking dish.

Pour a tiny bit of olive oil over each piece and season with salt and pepper.

If using fresh tomatoes, drop each one in boiling water for a minute and then cool a bit. The skin will peep right off. Cut them up and mash with a fork. Put some on top of each zucchini piece.

If using canned San Marzanos, use 1/2 to 1 whole tomato for each piece of zucchini – how much you use depends on how much tomato you want to taste and the size of your zucchini. Mash the tomato on top of each zucchini.

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Save the rest of the canned tomatoes and juices for making sauce at a later date.

Add the garlic on top of the tomato.

Add some Kosher salt and pepper.

Now, add the fresh herbs.

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Sprinkle the cheese over all. Use lots of it!

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Drizzle with Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Bake at 350 degrees for about 30-35 minutes or until fork tender. (fork slides right through)

You can even make these a day ahead and reheat.

Just one bite of this delicious dish, and I am back in Aunt Lizzie and Uncle John’s garden again, for another glorious meal. You will not believe how easy and delicious AUNT LIZZIE’S BAKED ZUCCHINI WITH TOMATOES will be. Try it, and meet me in the orchard for a rustic Italian lunch on a hot summer afternoon. I might even be persuaded to share her “famous” ice tea secrets with you.

PARLA COME MANGI!

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It’s Chic to Cheek: Pork Cheeks with Butternut Squash

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Buon giorno!

 It’s a fact! You either love pork or you don’t. When you do, it’s an “all in” kind of thing. You love every part and dish that is offered. For today’s recipe, we’re talking  about a “cheeky” kind of affection for sure. It is less common, and some might say “it’s out there”. Actually PORK CHEEKS are not really uncommon, and can be found on many of the new and considered trendy menus in some of the finest restaurants. Instead of serving them with the perfunctory pasta or risotto, I like them on a bed of roasted butternut squash. They are slow cooked and melt in your mouth delicious. Yes, today, we are steppin’ out with PORK CHEEKS AND BUTTERNUT SQUASH.

The pork cheek is also referred to as pork jowl. It is not a particularly expensive cut of pork. In fact, it is comparatively cheap. If you can’t find them, ask your butcher. When slowly cooked and flavored well they bring forth the most tender meat and can be served with their sauce over pasta, risotto, mashed potatoes, or almost anything. I particularly like them on a little bed of roasted butternut squash, as you see in the photo. The sauce for this recipe is so rich and delicious. Combined with the rub on the meat, this sauce offers a deep rich taste experience only enhanced by the huge jolt of pork flavor from the cheeks. This is one of those long cooking recipes just made for the slow cooker or crockpot. I suggest 8 hrs on low for this, if that is the way you prefer to go.

Guanciale: You may be familiar with the amazing Guanciale  - the renowned unsmoked Italian bacon made from pork cheeks and revered for it’s amazing flavor. The more familiar pancetta is much easier to find and slightly milder. However, when Guanciale is available – this is definitely the way to go for use in the familiar Italian dishes: Pasta All’Amatriciana and Spaghetti Alla Carbonara. It is even named for this cut of pork – coming from the Italian word guancia meaning cheek!

The most satisfying pork cheeks or jowls that I have found come from Circle B Ranch Pork.  You can order all the pork you can eat from their website. The PORK CHEEKS used in this demonstration came from this source.

About Circle B Ranch in their words:

“Circle B Ranch – Your Source for Natural Berkshire Pork from the Ozarks

Nestled in the gently rolling hills and woodlands of the southwest Missouri Ozarks, our 90 acre pork farm is conveniently located in the town of Seymour, MO, just 32 miles east of Springfield, MO.

Circle B Ranch provides a safe, all-natural home to breed, farrow and raise 100% Heritage Pork which includes Berkshire/Kurabota and Red Wattle. Our hog farm is run naturally, sustainably and humanely.”

About Circle B Ranch Pork in my words: This pork is by far the best quality I have ever tasted and cooked with. I have tried several of their cuts, and they do not disappoint. The meat is fresh, full of flavor, and gives me some peace of mind about the way the animals are raised. This is important for our own consumption when you read more and more about the antibiotics and hormones that are fed to the animals in our meat supply. In addition, I just like the idea of critters running freely to graze about in the pastures and woods as they were meant to rather than having a life of confinement.

Marina and John Backes, owners of Circle B Ranch, know all about this and are committed to the idea that the way animals live, eat, and are raised has a great effect on the quality and appearance of their meat.

The end result is most tender flavorful meat that more than satisfies the palate.

Andiamo!

PORK CHEEKS WITH ROASTED BUTTERNUT SQUASH

Serves: 2

Prep: 15-20 minutes

Refrig: 2 hours

Cook: 2 1/2-3 Hours

Ingredients

Generous Pinch of Cayenne pepper

3 Tbsp. Brown Sugar

2 Pork Cheeks ( about 2 lb. ea.) trimmed of the extra thick fat layer

3 Tbsp. Olive Oil

8 baby Carrots chopped

1 Stalk Celery chopped

1 Whole Onion chopped

3 Cloves fresh garlic

3 c. Red Wine

3 c. Beef Broth

2 Bay Leaves

4 Sprigs of Fresh Thyme

1 Tbsp. fresh Tarragon – chopped

2 Tbsp. Fresh Marjoram Leaves – chopped

Salt and pepper to taste

1 Large Fresh Butternut Squash, peeled and chopped

Instructions

Cut the thick fat layer off the pork cheeks with a sharp knife or ask your butcher to do it. Discard the fat layer. (See fat layer on left in photo)

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Make a rub of: a pinch of Cayenne Pepper, 2 Tbsp. Brown Sugar, Salt and Black Pepper. Mix and rub all over the pork cheeks. Refrigerate the cheeks for 2 hours.

Brown the cheeks in the olive oil on both sides. Remove from the pot and set aside.

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In the same pot, cook the chopped vegetables a few minutes to get started. (If using a slow cooker, now is the time to transfer the vegetables to it and proceed with the following instructions from there – Low and slow for about 8 hours)

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Add the meat back to the pan on top of the vegetables.

Add the wine, stock, and herbs to the pot. Add salt and pepper to taste.

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Cover and cook 2 1/2-3 hours on top of the stove until “falling apart tender”. At the 1 1/2 hour mark turn the cheeks over. During the cooking process, if you find you need more liquid, add more broth.

When finished, remove the Bay Leaves and Thyme sprigs.

Depending on your taste, you can serve them whole or remove the little meaty medallions and perch them on a bed of whatever you choose like they do in the restaurants. (See first photo) You can also slice them and serve them that way.  See here:

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If serving with Butternut Squash, toss the chopped squash with a little olive oil, salt and pepper, and roast at 400 degrees about 30 minutes or more until it reaches desired tenderness.

Prepare to dine on the most tender and possibly the most divinely flavorful meat you have ever tasted! It’s time to go for that beautiful Barbaresco you have wanted to try. Yes indeed – it is!

PARLA COME MANGI!

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LINDA’S ITALIAN TABLE

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Food Photos By Tommy Hanks Photography

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