Recipe of the Month May: Branzino–Fire Roasted on the Grill!

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Branzino-5

Buon giorno!

This is one of those “looks complicated – but  easy slide” dishes that makes you look like the hero/heroine of the patio scene. BRANZINO – FIRE ROASTED ON THE GRILL is a dish you’ll want to eat and serve over and over during the grilling season. What? A whole fish – I can’t do that! O yeah – O yeah – you CAN!

Growing up, I ate a lot of fish from both fresh water and sea. My father, Attilio, was not only an avid and committed fisherman – but he also knew how to cook each and every type of fish he brought home to us.  He cleaned and filleted his fish in seconds with surgical finesse and artistry. He taught me, but I never could master his speed and precision. He often served his fish whole and grilled. Not having access to Branzino, we frequently enjoyed Striped Bass and Bluefish – fresh caught off the beach at Cape Cod during the summers.

So what is Branzino anyway? Branzino (plural – Branzini) is actually referred to as the “sea bass” of the Mediterranean. It was touted as the “fish of the year” in the New York Times for 2012. It is slim and silvery – a beautiful fish really. It used to be that you would see it on the menu as a special entry at only the finest Italian restaurants. Thankfully, it is now available to all of us through our local fish markets in generous supply. It is often served whole. It is meaty and takes the high temperatures of the grill well.

Branzino-1

Whole? Really? Uh-huh! The whole Branzino of about a pound to a pound and a quarter is the perfect size for 2. Most fishmongers now carry it. It definitely can be found at Whole Foods.

How to prep this thing? So you have found your Branzino at the market. What now? Ask your fishmonger to scale it, remove fins, gut it, and clean it for you, leaving the head and the tail on. The rest is easy. When you get it home – give it a rinse in and out and pat it dry. That’s it! Now you’re ready to cook it.

The Cookin! Although you could easily bake this fish in the oven, it is sooooo perfect for the grill. It responds quickly to a smokin’ hot fire, cooking through very rapidly, delivering a tasty, tender, white meat. The fun is in the flavoring.

This recipe: I used just a few fresh ingredients for this FIRE ROASTED BRANZINO -  combining fresh garlic, orange, tarragon, fennel, and scallions. To add perfection to perfection, I recommend using your best and favorite Extra Virgin Olive Oil. I used a beautiful Greek Koroneiki Extra Virgin from Virgin California Olive Oil Company.

Branzino-2

The result: Your beautiful Branzino cooks in a flash and makes a show stopping presentation served whole at the table. Just reach inside and carefully lift the backbone which pulls out easily. That’s it! This is so easy and quick to prepare, you won’t believe it. You’ll make this easy BRANZINO – part of your grilling repertoire for the coming season.

Fire up the grill!

BRANZINO – FIRE ROASTED ON THE GRILL

Serves: 2

Prep: 15 minutes

Cook: approx. 10 minutes

Ingredients

1 Whole Branzino (about 1 lb.) (plural – Branzini)

Your favorite Extra Virgin Olive Oil – Make it a good one!

Kosher Salt and freshly ground Black Pepper

2 Garlic Cloves – chopped

1 Fennel Bulb, cleaned and sliced

Fresh Tarragon Sprigs

Several Fresh Orange Slices

Juice of 1/2 Fresh Orange

Chopped Fresh Scallions for garnish

Instructions

Ask your fishmonger to take the scales off your Branzino, remove the fins, and clean out the inside (gut).

Prepare your grill fire. I recommend soaking and using some wood chips to create good smoke.

Rinse off your fish and pat it dry.

Drizzle the fish inside and out with Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Salt and pepper the inside.

Holding the fish open, sprinkle in the garlic and lay some fennel, orange slices, and tarragon sprigs inside as well.

Squeeze the orange inside the fish. Close the fish and drizzle some of the orange on the outside.

Branzino-3

Place your stuffed Branzino on a grilling pan with holes or in a grilling basket. Lay the extra fennel and orange slices on the pan also as they will be delicious grilled and charred. Drizzle them also with some of the oil, orange juice, salt and pepper.

When the fire is hot and your wood is smoking – place your grilling pan on the grill and close it.

Branzino-4

Roast it for about 6 minutes – turn over and grill for another 6 minutes  on the other side.

Garnish with fresh chopped scallions and orange slices.

Serve your beautiful BRANZINO – FIRE ROASTED ON THE GRILL with a crisp Pinot Grigio!

PARLA COME MANGI!

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April: Minestrone – the Quintessential Spring Soup

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Minestrone 2a  sm

Buon giorno!

MINESTRONE is actually an old timer. It has been around for centuries dating back to the days before even the Roman Empire. The diet at that time was mostly vegetables anyway – with very little meat eaten at all. Later, as the Roman roads expanded and more goods filtered into the area, meat in all forms made its way into the diet, and of course into the soup!

MINESTRONE is considered a peasant soup whose form alters with the change of seasonal vegetables or even your whim. However, the spring vegetables are closely associated with it. You’ll find it on many Italian Easter and spring menus using spring greens and other favorites of the season. Although your minestrone can really be whatever you want it to be, you’ll find certain veggies in most of the ones served – such as beans, greens,potatoes, and carrots. Pasta, in some form, is usually included. This is one healthy soup, as you can imagine, with all of these good veggies swirling around in it. Whether you choose to add meat to yours is up to you. I like to add meat as the resulting flavor is deeper and richer. Of course, my choice for meat for this soup would be some form of pork.

My mother, Loretta, used to make the most amazing minestra, as she called it. In the spring, she would use a ham bone for extra flavor. Often this bone came from the ham she served for New Year’s. She would “squirrel” it away in the freezer until just before Easter when she made her simple minestra with greens – often dandelion greens. Minestra is merely a simple form of MINESTRONE – which by its name meant “big minestra”. And BIG it is, depending on the number of vegetables you care to include.

This recipe for MINESTRONE, though simple, makes a LOT of soup. That’s the beauty of it. You have soup for your meal, soup for the next day, and soup in the freezer for another time. It is flavorful, hearty, and good for you. You’ll be happy you have extra!

MINESTRONE

Makes:  a lot! (freeze some for another day)

PREP: 30 minutes

COOK: 30 minutes

Ingredients

1 1/2 – 2 C. Ditalini or Elbow Pasta or another small size pasta shape – cooked separately

3 Tbsp. Olive Oil

3 oz. Salt Pork – chopped

1 onion – chopped

15 Baby Carrots – chopped

1 Stalk Celery – chopped

1/2 Red Pepper – chopped

1/2 Yellow Pepper – chopped

1 Crown Broccoli – cut up

1 bunch Kale Leaves– rinsed,  and torn into pieces

4 Oz. Mushrooms – sliced

2 Yukon Gold Potatoes – cubed

1 15 oz.Can Cannellini Beans – rinsed, drained

1 14 oz Can Chopped Tomatoes

64 oz. Chicken or Vegetable Broth

2 C. Water

2 Bay Leaves

1 Piece Parmigiano-Reggiano Cheese Rind

Pinch Red Pepper Flakes

2 Tbsp. Chopped Fresh Parsley

2 Tbsp. Chopped Fresh Basil

Salt and Pepper to taste

A generous squeeze of a fresh lemon

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino to serve with it.

Instructions

Saute the salt pork in the olive oil 1-2 minutes.

Add the onion, carrots, celery, red & yellow peppers, broccoli, kale, mushrooms, and potatoes. Cook just a few minutes, stirring.

Add the beans, tomatoes, broth, water, Bay Leaves, Rind, red pepper flakes, and herbs.

Bring to boil and reduce heat to medium low and keep at a  good simmer for 30 minutes or until vegetables are fork tender.

Add the cooked pasta to the soup. Stir.

Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper and give the soup a generous squeeze from a fresh lemon.

Remove the Bay Leaves as they can cause choking.

Minestrone 1a   sm-2

Yes! It’s that easy folks. Serve your MINESTRONE with plenty of grated cheese on the side. This will serve about 8 people – or divide it up to freeze portions for another day. You’ll be glad you did!

PARLA COME MANGI!

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March: Seared Scallops with Butternut Squash and Pears

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Capesante - 

 Scallops A

Buon giorno!

Getting my springtime groove on and the thought of SEARED SCALLOPS WITH BUTTERNUT SQUASH AND PEARS sets my heart “atwirl”. I just love fresh Sea Scallops, and grilling or searing in a pan, to me, are cooking methods just made for  them. Since my mojo always dictates the need for something for scallops to perch upon, instead of the expected risotto or pasta, I’m taking a turn to a beautiful mixture of vegetables – a little bit healthy while maintaining  a little bit rock and roll with the snappy visual – great color – and the addition of the ever flavorful touch of pork – pancetta.

 

Scallops in Italian cooking: Scallops go so far back in time relative to the Mediterranean that it almost can’t be pinpointed. Marco Polo mentioned them in his writing, but they long pre-dated him. They are called “capesante”  in Italy and are cooked all sorts of ways – breaded, in sauces, risottos, pastas etc. It is recommended whether in Italy or anywhere to purchase and eat them as freshly as possible for the best results.

Linda's Shells sm

Searing scallops: There are just a few things to keep in mind for a successful sear. Dryness of your scallops is probably the most important thing. If your scallops are wet – they won’t sear – they will steam – and that lovely sizzled look will not be yours. Pat them dry first ,as much as you can, with paper towels. Then 2-3 minutes at a high heat will do the trick!

 

You will love this preparation. It is fresh. It is fairly simple. It is a most delicious dish. The recipe is made for two for a reason. This is a very special dish for a special evening – so much so, that I suggest pairing this with a bottle of your favorite champagne! Go for it!

Champagne 1-2

SEARED SCALLOPS WITH BUTTERNUT SQUASH AND PEARS

Serves: 2

Prep: 50-60 minutes

Ingredients

1 C. butternut squash cut up, drizzled with olive oil, salt and pepper added, then roasted at 400 degrees for about 20 minutes until tender

1/4 C. Finely Chopped Pancetta

1 Tbsp. Olive Oil

1 Tbsp. Butter

1 C. Sliced Fennel

1/2 C. Chopped Pear

1/4 C. Dry White wine

1/4 C. Heavy Cream

8 Sea Scallops (4 per person)

1 Tbsp. Butter

1 Tbsp. Olive Oil

Plenty of Chopped Fresh Chives for garnish

2 Tbsp. Toasted Pignoli (pine nuts)

Scallops 2

Instructions

After roasting the butternut squash, cut it into very small pieces (diced). Set aside.

Scallops 1

In a pan, cook the pancetta in the olive oil and butter about 2 minutes.

scallops 5

Add the fennel and pear – Cook about 5 minutes.

Seared Scallops 7

Add the roasted squash, toss, and then add the wine. Cook down for a

about 3-4 minutes.

Adjust seasoning – add salt and pepper to taste.

Add the cream. Heat through.

Seared scallops 8

For Scallops: Smell the scallops to make sure they smell sweet and are fresh. Pat them dry with paper towels. Heat the butter and olive oil in a pan until very hot. Add scallops – sear about 2 minutes and turn over, cooking another minute. (or 2 if extra thick)

Scallops 3

Scallops 4

Divide the vegetable mixture between two plates. Top with Seared Scallops

Garnish the dish with chopped fresh chives and toasted pignoli (pine nuts) and serve immediately.

Now pop that champagne for a very special dinner for two with SEARED SCALLOPS WITH BUTTERNUT SQUASH AND PEARS!

PARLA COME MANGI!

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February: Fish with Roasted Caponata

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Pesce Alla Caponata Arrosto-

Swordfish-with-roasted-caponata

Buon giorno!

I am often asked for ideas on preparing fish. For some, there is a little fear involved. For others, they think perhaps they just can’t do it properly at home. FISH WITH ROASTED CAPONATA will take all those worries away. It is easy, versatile, and I think, foolproof!

Fish was almost a staple in our house when I was growing up. My family prepared and ate it often – all kinds of fish. Because my father, Attilio, was a joyful and avid fisherman of fresh and salt water, we experienced many types of fish at our table. There was never a shortage of ways to prepare them. When it came to gifts from the sea, he often baked the fish simply with olive oil and a few herbs. This is the way I prepared my fish for this recipe.

When baking, roasting, or grilling fish, your greatest success will be with “meatier” or more firm varieties such as swordfish, cod, sea bass, or halibut. These types of fish can stand the heat longer and tend not to fall apart in the process. For this demonstration, I selected swordfish, but the choice is yours.

About caponata: Caponata is one of the wonders of the Sicilian culinary world. It is a mixture of vegetables most often including eggplant, tomatoes, peppers, olives etc. You might liken it to the French Ratatouille. The difference is that caponata is usually spicier and has a sweet/sour flavor. Usually, it is prepared on top of the stove. However, here, I elected to roast it. Why? I love roasted vegetables and the roasting makes a much easier and quicker preparation. To me, a roasted caponata is the perfect way to dress baked fish and take it from bland to “out of sight” delicious! Everyone will love fish prepared this way.

Tip: If you have leftover caponata – you are in for a treat. Add it to your cold cut sandwiches or paninis. – OR – Serve it at room temperature with crackers or bread as an appetizer. Heaven!

A word about Castelvetrano olives: Everyone who frequents my website and facebook page,knows how much I LOVE olives of all kinds. Perhaps, my favorite, definitely my husband’s favorite is the Castelvetrano Olive.

Castelvetrano Olives

The Castelvetranos are grown in western Sicily and are named for a town in the Trapani area. These are the almost blue-green olives you find at olive bars. They are also found in jars now in the condiment section of your grocer. They stand out from the rest with their vivid color. They are mild, sweet, and meaty. Many people, who are not fond of olives, love the Castelvetranos. Just pop one of them in your mouth and you’ll know what I mean. They almost melt in your mouth with their wonderful buttery flavor – not tart or tangy or sharp or salty like many others. These are special — which is why I decided to use them in this recipe instead of a sharper choice.

This fish dish will astound you with its flavor. You take a very ordinary, otherwise plain piece of fish to a totally different place with the addition of the roasted caponata. It is a memorable dish that is as suitable for an elegant table as for a family meal.

FISH WITH ROASTED CAPONATA

(PESCE ALLA CAPONATA ARROSTO)

Makes: 4 servings

Prep: 15 minutes

Cook: Cook 20-25 minutes

Ingredients

For fish:

2 lb. Halibut, Sea Bass, Cod or Swordfish about an inch thick (1/2 lb. per person)

Olive Oil

Salt and Pepper

For the caponata:

2 C. Cubed eggplant

1 Clove Garlic – chopped

1/2 Onion – chopped coarsely

1 C. Halved Cherry or Grape Tomatoes

1/3 C. Olive Oil

1/8 C. Balsamic Vinegar

1/2 Tbsp. Sugar

Kosher Salt and Pepper to taste

Pinch Red Pepper Flakes

1/4 C. Chopped Roasted Red Peppers (For instructions on roasting your own peppers easily, visit this post: Sovana and the Mystery Dish

2 Tbsp. Fresh Chopped Parsley

1/2 C. Castelvetrano Olives – halved (Read about these in the above text.)

2 Tbsp. Capers, rinsed and drained

Chopped Fresh Parsley for garnish

Instructions

Prepare your fish by brushing or drizzling with olive oil and add salt and pepper. Then use the cooking method you prefer: grilling, baking (400 degrees for about 20 minutes), etc.

Fish - caponata  3

For the caponata: Chop your eggplant, garlic, onion, and tomatoes.  Mix them together in a bowl.

Combine your olive oil, vinegar, sugar, salt, pepper, and red pepper flakes. Pour this over your vegetables in the bowl and toss.

Spread this mixture out on a baking pan covered with foil.

Roast this in a 400 degree oven for about 20-25 minutes until tender.

Fish - caponata 1

In the last 5 minutes of roasting, add the roasted peppers, parsley, olives, and capers. Toss together and finish roasting.

roasted cap

Pour the Roasted Caponata over the top of your cooked fish, garnish with more chopped fresh parsley, and serve.

This recipe takes all the stress and complication out of serving fish. You will love serving your FISH WITH ROASTED CAPONATA almost as much as you will enjoy eating it!

PARLA COME MANGI!

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January: Soup With Lamb

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Zuppa Con Agnello-

Lamb-Soup

Buon giorno!

“When the weather outside is frightful and the fire is so delightful”, our appetites turn to hearty and warm – but we also like to keep it fairly healthy. At the turn of the new year, food is all about comfort and for me – my favorite soup which is a Tuscan standard – SOUP WITH LAMB or ZUPPA CON AGNELLO.

It’s origins: This soup comes to us from Grosseto in Tuscany where raising sheep is an art form, and the resulting Pecorino cheese, made from sheep’s milk, is the pride of the area.

Why is this simple soup my favorite? When you taste it, you’ll know. This soup is so easy and quick to make you’d think it can’ possibly be that memorable. On the contrary, it is positively luscious in its richness. The ground lamb is the magical ingredient, I think. It has to be. Here’s why! You put the soup together and after tasting you might think – ho hum. Not so fast. Something happens to the soup when it simmers the hour and twenty minutes required. I’m about to tell you what it is. It’s the LAMB! As the soup simmers, the ground lamb emits a rich flavor that takes over and transforms it from a pot of ingredients to something very special.

It is so special that this transformation does not occur if you decide to use ground beef – so don’t! It ‘s the lamb, baby. You can take it to the bank.

While you’re there, you can deposit something else – and that is, that this soup is fairly healthy. It is full of mostly fresh garden ingredients. If you must, you can always add some pasta to it, to make it more hearty, but you really don’t need it. I prefer to serve this soup the Tuscan way with a slice of crusty bread brushed with olive oil and toasted. Now THAT’S goodness!

Oh! And before you ask, yes you CAN make this in your slow cooker!

I think your family and friends will come running back for more when they taste this one. AND – You can assume a smug expression, when you think of how little time and effort went into the making of this amazing soup. One thing I’ll guarantee – it won’t be the only time you’ll make it!

Let me introduce you to my favorite soup.

SOUP WITH LAMB

(ZUPPA CON AGNELLO)

Serves: 6 (approx.)

Prep: 15 minutes

Cook: 1 hour and 20 minutes

Ingredients

4 Tbsp. Olive Oil

1 Onion – chopped

4 Cloves Fresh Garlic – chopped finely

12 Baby Carrots – chopped

2 Stalks Celery – chopped

3 Tbsp. Chopped Fresh Parsley

2 Tbsp. Fresh Sage – chopped

1 lb. Ground Lamb

1 Cup White Wine ( use a nice one and drink the rest with your soup!)

14 oz. Can Tomatoes – chopped

6 Cups Chicken Broth

Salt and Pepper to taste

Crusty bread or baguette- sliced, brushed with Olive Oil and toasted on the grill or in the oven

Grated Pecorino Cheese

Instructions

Saute onion, garlic, carrots, celery, parsley, and sage in the olive oil until just tender- about 5-6 minutes.

Lamb Soup 1

Add ground lamb and brown.

Lamb Soup 2

Then add the white wine. Cook in a couple of minutes.

Add the tomatoes, broth, salt and pepper.

Lamb Soup 3

Simmer uncovered for about an hour and 20 minutes.

Serve the SOUP WITH LAMB over a slice of crusty bread, brushed with olive oil, and toasted with plenty of grated Pecorino Cheese. Oh, and a roaring fire can’t hurt!

PARLA COME MANGI!

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December: Ginger Biscuit Tortoni

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Tortoni_2

Buon giorno!

Many of you may remember a popular Italian dessert that used to appear on Italian restaurant menus in years past – Tortoni or Biscuit Tortoni. This dessert has old roots and was served by Italians in Paris in the 1800’s. It was a favorite of my husband when we were first married, and he often asked me to make it for family gatherings. I don’t hear of it as much these days, and it is sad, in my view, as it is sooo tasty as to even be slightly addictive. Thinking it might be fun to merge Tortoni with some holiday flavors, I developed  my own recipe for GINGER BISCUIT TORTONI which has turned out to be a hit in our household during the Christmas season.

What is Tortoni or Biscuit Tortoni? This dessert is an easy to make and easy to serve – almost ice cream concoction. However, unlike ice cream, no special machinery is necessary to make it. It is a delicious blend of cream, cookie crumbs (which account for the biscuit part of this), nuts, candied or crystallized ginger, rum, and a few other ingredients. Once mixed together, you spoon it into muffin cups, which is the traditional way to serve this delight – and then you freeze it.

It should freeze for at least 2-3 hours, but can be made ahead and frozen. If frozen solid, remove the cups from the freezer several minutes before serving. You’ll want the consistency to be a little softer so that a spoon slides through it easily – not rock hard. On that note, I remind you that if you don’t let these little sugar plums sit out a bit – they may start flying about the table when your guests attempt to attack them with their spoons. Tortoni, no matter how tasty, landing in the lap of “Aunt Nicolina” is generally frowned upon!

This one is waaay too easy not to try! Fa-la-la-la-la…

GINGER BISCUIT TORTONI

Makes: 12-14 tortoni

Prep: 40 minutes

Ingredients

3/4 c. Crushed Ginger Snaps (found at any grocer) or Gingerbread Biscotti – recipe HERE 

1/2 c. Toasted Coarsely chopped slivered almonds

2 1/2 c. Heavy Cream

3 Tbsp. Spiced Rum (I like Captain Morgan’s)

1/3 c. Sugar

dash salt

2 tsp Orange Zest

2 Tbsp. Chopped Candied or Crystallized Ginger ( 3 Tbsp. if you really like ginger!)

Red candied cherries ( or red and green)

Extra ginger snap or biscotti crumbs for garnish

Instructions

Crush cookies – easy in food processor.

Toast almonds and set aside.

Tortoni 1

Add rum to the cream and whip.

Mix together: Sugar, salt, orange zest, crushed cookies or biscotti, toasted almonds, candied or crystallized ginger.

Tortoni 2

Add this mixture to the whipped cream and rum. Fold in gently.

Tortoni 3

Spoon this into muffin cups – lined with paper muffin liners.

Tortoni 4

Top with candied cherries and crushed cookies or biscotti.

Freeze at least 3 hours.

Tortoni 5

If you make this and freeze it ahead, let the tortoni sit out a few minutes before serving so it won’t be rock hard.

Tortoni_1

All you need with this is a piping hot cup of espresso. Serve one of the GINGER BISCUIT TORTONI to each person – but expect them to ask for more!

PARLA COME MANGI!

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November: Wild Mushroom Soup -

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Wild Mushroom Soup best

 

Buon giorno!

In our house, holiday recipes are set in stone. There is always a soup and it is usually of the mushroom variety as a perfect nod to fall. WILD MUSHROOM SOUP is a beautiful addition to any fall meal – especially a holiday one. I love wild mushrooms – any type. This soup combines an earthy blend of the wild ones with leeks to make a simple beautiful soup – appropriate to begin a meal – or as a meal in itself. As an added incentive – you can make it ahead and freeze it.

 

I grew up in a household that actually revered these little funghi. My father, Attilio, made it his personal mission to hunt for as many of the wild mushrooms in the varieties he knew that he could, so that my mother, Loretta, could freeze them for use during the months ahead. He only gathered the ones he was sure of and often went with his friend , Coco, from the First Ward area of Binghamton, who was considered an expert. We loved the wild ones. Read more about Attilio’s wild mushroom hunting in my Wild Mushroom Pizza post.

Wild mushrooms

 

Why wild? There is a difference in flavor – they are a little stronger – and better. There is also a difference in texture. Just bite into one and you’ll see. Fortunately, for all of us today, it is easy to go to most markets where we find so many different varieties available – even the dried kind which are very good when reconstituted. I like a nice variety of the wild mushrooms for this soup. They give the soup such a beautiful flavor and because they are pureed at the end, they create a creamy soup even though there is NO cream in the soup at all!

 

Don’t save this one for a holiday – enjoy it all winter long. You’ll love it!

WILD MUSHROOM SOUP

Serves: 6-8

Prep: 25 minutes

Cook: 30-35 minutes

Ingredients

3 Leeks – cleaned and sliced thinly using the light green and white parts only

leeks - light green and white parts

4 Tbsp. Butter

2 Tbsp. Oil

3 Whole Shallots – chopped

1 Clove Fresh Garlic – chopped

1/4 Tsp. Red Pepper Flakes

2  Tbsp. Flour

1 lb. Assorted Sliced Wild Mushrooms ( Shiitake, Porcini, Crimini etc – whatever you like)

2 Tbsp. Fresh Sage – chopped

Pinch Fresh Ground Nutmeg

1/2 C. Dry White Wine

7  C. Chicken or Vegetable Broth

Salt and Pepper to taste

Fresh Sage for garnish

Optional: Balsamic Glaze – drizzle for garnish if desired. This can be strong – use just a tiny bit.

Instructions

Clean leeks as directed HERE    & slice thinly.

Leeks-2_thumb

Chop shallots and garlic and saute with the leeks and red pepper flakes in butter and oil – covered -  until tender for about 10 minutes at medium high heat.

Photo Sep 25, 2 56 06 PM

Add the flour and cook a couple of minutes more, stirring.

Photo Sep 25, 3 08 29 PM

Add sliced wild mushrooms, sage, nutmeg and wine – stir.

Add the broth and cook uncovered for about 20 minutes at a strong simmer.

Photo Sep 25, 3 22 43 PM

Next – puree the mushroom mixture. I like to use an immersion blender for this. It is easy and can be done right in your pan. You can also use a food processor, processing the mixture in batches . Either way -  puree the mixture until it is smooth. If there are a few mushrooms left floating, that’s ok.

Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper to taste.

Refrigerate or freeze until ready to use.

Garnish with fresh sage and a little drizzle of Balsamic Glaze, if you like ,for a little brightness. If you do use the glaze – be VERY sparing, as this has a lot of flavor, and you don’t want to overwhelm the delicate soup.

WILD MUSHROOM SOUP is a beautiful velvety soup that can be served as a first course or as a meal along with some crusty bread and salad.

PARLA COME MANGI!

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October: Game Hens Agrodolce

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Game Hens Agrodolce21

Buon giorno!

Linda’s Italian Table raises a glass to 2 years sharing the joy of Italian cooking online. Join me in celebrating with this beautiful fall dish, GAME HENS AGRODOLCE. This dish is typical of Tuscan preparations for game offered down through the centuries. It is an incredibly delicious – lick your fingers – kind of dish with a bounty of flavor. Tuscan hunters often use the “agrodolce” (sour and sweet) method when cooking their game, using its  sweetness to mask the “gamey” essence of many forms of wild birds and animals.

This recipe calls for Cornish Game Hens – easy to find at any grocer – and needing no masking as they do not have a strong wild flavor. They are small, delicate, and fun to eat. They also make a lovely presentation for guests. I like to make 2 hens whether serving 2 or 4. Even if it’s a twosome, the leftovers are sooo good.

OK – before you tip-toe away looking for something “less complicated” – let me reel you back in. The secret here is that these little game hens are way too easy to make. No excuses for running away! It doesn’t get any easier than this. On the other hand, it will look like you’ve been slaving in the kitchen for days. My advice – let them think you did!

Making agrodolce dishes is a personal favorite Italian cooking choice for me, not only because they are so good, but also because my father, Attilio, was a WIZARD at making them. Whenever he cooked his game (which he hunted and dressed himself), I wanted to be around to watch (and taste). It was always an event involving tantalizing aromas, seductively delicious tastings, and splendidly well chosen red wine. I always anticipated learning which fruit he might include his masterpiece. The dishes provided visual delight and an always memorable dining experience for me and any fortunate others who might be hanging around the kitchen that day.

TO THE HENS!

GAME HENS AGRODOLCE

Serves: 4

Prep: 25 minutes

Cook: 30

Ingredients

2 Rock Cornish Game Hens

4 Tbsp Olive Oil

1/4 c. Salt Pork – chopped

2 Cloves Fresh Garlic – chopped finely

2 Whole Shallots – chopped

3/4 c. Dry Red Wine

2 Tbsp. Balsamic Vinegar

2 Tsp. Sugar

2 Tbsp. Fresh Rosemary – chopped

2 Tsp. Fresh Thyme Leaves – chopped

2 Tsp. Orange Zest

1 1/2 C. Dried Cherries – whole

Kosher Salt and Freshly Ground Black Pepper to taste

Instructions

Prepare your ingredients.

Game Hens Agrodolce02

Clean hens, pat dry.

Using poultry shears or sharp scissors, cut the hens in half, lengthwise. Lay the halves down and flatten them with a mallet or a heavy can of something like tomatoes!

Game Hens Agrodolce01

Salt and pepper the hen halves on both sides.

Brown the halves in the olive oil. Just brown them – don’t attempt to cook through.

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Remove the halves to a platter and reserve.

In the same pan, saute the salt pork, garlic, shallots for a couple of minutes.

Game Hens Agrodolce03

Add the hen halves back to the pan and add the wine, rosemary, thyme, vinegar, sugar, zest and cherries. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Cook a couple minutes, turning the hens.

Place pan in 350 degree oven, uncovered, for about 15-20 minutes until cooked through. This does not take long. Turn the hen halves halfway through cooking.

If the pan begins to dry, add a little water.

When finished, taste sauce for seasoning.

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This recipe does not make a lot of sauce – just enough to spoon over the hens.

Serving: GAME HENS AGRODOLCE  is one dish just made to serve over polenta, as you see in the photo. However, it is also lovely with red skin mashed potatoes. You will love this great fall Tuscan dish! Attilio would have served the hens with his beloved Valpolicella Ripasso. The more adventurous might consider a Brunello di Montalcino which is often served with heavier meat dishes. This dish with its earthy and deep flavors will stand up well to the Brunello.

While you enjoy this dish, you might tip a glass to the third year for Linda’s Italian Table which is just beginning. I will definitely be toasting to YOU!

PARLA COME MANGI!

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September: Roast Chicken With Peppers And Potatoes

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Pollo Arrosto Con Peperoni E Patate

Roast-Chicken-with-Peppers--Potatoes[2]

Buon giorno!

My mother, Loretta, knew how to stretch a buck! She also knew how to make a great meal out of that buck. One of my favorite dishes growing up was Loretta’s ROAST CHICKEN WITH PEPPERS AND POTATOES, a one dish meal that was sooo delicious and was as economical as it was flavorful. This dish is one of those simple rustic dishes that looks almost too easy. In fact, it is so simple, you might be tempted to say, “So what?” That there is nothing “gimmicky” to this one – does not reduce its appeal. It is a combination of good ingredients – fresh for the most part – that come together for a satisfying result. This is the one you’ll be serving all through the cooler months and comes under the category of comfort food.

About Italian Chickens: Chickens have long been used in the Italian diet though not always for eating the birds. In old times, peasants kept their chicken for egg laying and usually only ate them when they were old and no longer producing. Then they would use them for soup. The well-to-do were able to raise them to eat. They were apt to roast and stuff them with all kinds of nuts, fruits, and berries. It is the Tuscans, who were and still are known for their chickens raised in the free range style and fed unusual foods from marigolds to goat’s milk for the purpose of enriching the yolks and making them vivid in color. Even though the Tuscans may tout their “cluckers” – you will be sure to find chickens all over Italy.

Let’s break it down: Loretta made this very often with a whole chicken cut into parts – something you certainly can do and enjoy – or even use white meat, if you prefer. However, I happen to like dark meat, and thighs are particularly tender and not very expensive. I love using thighs for this recipe. Their juicy and flavorful nature just seems made for it. I like the skin removed not only because of the extra fat, but also because there are enough juices generated in the dish, and the skin creates more that seems unnecessary. You can choose thighs with the bone in or boneless. To me, the boneless thighs just make the whole thing easier to eat.

Very often, Loretta made this dish by simply adding green peppers and potatoes to it. I so love yellow peppers that I like to use both yellow and green which made a pretty presentation and become very sweet upon roasting. I also add mushrooms, and sometimes use wild mushrooms when I can find nice ones. The garlic roasts beautifully into the dish, imparting its usual punch. However, the addition of just a little chopped pancetta take it to a deeper more complex flavor level. Nothing like a little pork to kick this dish straight through the goal posts! Ahhh! The herbs – always fresh and in abundance in any successful dish, this is no exception. The herbs in this beautiful dish are not chopped or minced, but instead, are added in sprig form and in larger pieces.

The aroma emanating from your kitchen will attract everyone within smelling distance, coming to discover what and who is responsible for this tantalizing intrusion to the senses.

Andiamo!

ROAST CHICKEN WITH PEPPERS AND POTATOES

(Pollo Arrosto Con Peperoni E Patate)

Serves: 4

Prep: 15 minutes

Cook: I hour 15 minutes approx

Ingredients

8 Skinned chicken thighs – boned if you like (If preferred, use assorted chicken parts or even breast meat)

1 Medium Onion – cut in large pieces

4 Large Gold Potatoes – skins on or off – up to you

1/2 lb. Mushrooms – Whole or cut in half

1 Green Pepper – cut in large pieces

1 Yellow Pepper – cut in large pieces

6-7 Cloves of Fresh Garlic – sliced

4 Slices Pancetta – chopped

A couple of Large Sprigs of Fresh Rosemary – broken into pieces

4-5 Springs Fresh Thyme

Kosher Salt and Black Pepper to taste

Olive Oil

Instructions

Lay the chicken thighs in a large baking dish or pan. Sprinkle with Kosher Salt and Pepper and drizzle with a little Olive Oil.

Add the next 9 ingredients remaining ingredients.

Finish with a generous drizzle of olive oil over all, and then add the salt and pepper.

Chicken---like-this-one_thumb1

Place the dish in a 350 degree oven and roast for about 1 hour and 15 minutes, stirring a couple of times during the cook time. ( You may or may not need the full cook time. When the chicken is cooked through and vegetables are fork tender, it’s done.) Easy enough?

For a delicious pairing with ROAST CHICKEN WITH PEPPERS AND POTATOES, I like a medium bodied red wine like Amarone or Valpolicella. Either seems to hold up well to the rich flavors of the roasted vegetables, dark meat roasted chicken, and pancetta.

PARLA COME MANGI!

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August: Spaghetti with Crab and Mascarpone Sauce

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Things that crawl make great pasta!

Crab and Mascarpone sauce_0018aresized

Buon giorno!

I suppose you could make pasta with anything. I find that some of my favorite sauces are made with things that crawl and are usually found in the sea – like shrimp, clams, lobster, and crabs! SPAGHETTI WITH CRAB AND MASCARPONE SAUCE is definitely a dish that I especially love. It’s good anytime of year. For some reason, it just seems to taste better in the summer when my thoughts turn to things “beachy”, and of course, the patio would be my top choice of serving destinations. For me, this beautiful dish screams: OUTDOORS! Throw in a little “Come Back to Sorrento”, and I’m there!

About Mascarpone: For those unfamiliar, Mascarpone Cheese is the Italian version of cream cheese – a little sweeter – a little softer – a little better in my book. Let’s get off to a good start and try to pronounce this beautiful mellifluous Italian word correctly. It astounds me how many times I hear it mispronounced by accomplished chefs and on the Food Channels where they should know better. It’s like running nails down a chalkboard in “Linda’s Italian Table-Land” every time I hear it mangled.  What it is not: MARS –ka – pone. What it is: MOSS-car-po-ne!! There I’ve said it, and I feel better. As if the crab and tomatoes which go together like Martin and Lewis needed any embellishment – the addition of the beautiful velvety Mascarpone Cheese just puts it right over the top!

Ingredients: This is a truly beautiful dish and one that has all the ease of most Italian recipes. As always, the ingredients are key. Your dish will reflect them. Don’t cut corners. Just use the right stuff, and success will be yours! One point of note – your crab is critical. I do not recommend the canned stuff near the canned tuna at your grocer. You won’t taste it. Use fresh if you can get it or packaged fresh in containers from your fishmonger. Not everyone lives in Maryland like my friend, Peggy, who is surrounded by the little creatures and has daily access. Those containers of fresh packed crab in the seafood department work very well. I like Jumbo Lump or Lump Crab, as they both come in larger pieces and stay together nicely when you toss the sauce, usually with fewer shells. Backfin is okay but will be less distinguishable in the sauce, as it is shredded. There is nothing like biting into those large sweet chunks of Lump Crab and really tasting its sweetness. Most grocers carry it – also Whole Foods—and Costco (for a good deal!) etc.

Pasta: This lovely sweet sauce begs for a long graceful strand of pasta: spaghetti, linguine or capellini. Of course, Pasta Fresca is ideal!

Oh! And no grated cheese with this – please!

I absolutely cannot wait another second. I MUST make this subito!

SPAGHETTI WITH CRAB AND MASCARPONE SAUCE

Serves: 4

Prep: 10 minutes

Cook: 30 minutes

Ingredients

1 lb. Spaghetti, linguine, or capellini cooked according to package directions

3 Tbsp. Olive Oil

3 Large Cloves Fresh Garlic

1/2 c. Dry White Wine

1 28 oz. Can San Marzano Tomatoes – crushed with your fingers

Salt and pepper to taste

1/2 tsp. Red Pepper Flakes

1 lb. Fresh or Packaged Fresh Jumbo Lump or Lump Crab

2 Tbsp. Chopped Fresh Basil

8 oz. Mascarpone Cheese

1/4 c. Chopped Fresh Basil Leaves for garnish

Instructions

Cook the garlic in the olive oil for a minute or two – do not burn!

Add the wine and cook another minute or two.

Add the tomatoes. I like crushing them with my fingers to get a more controlled consistency. Cutting them makes big chunks and blending makes them too fine.

Add also the salt, pepper, and red pepper.

Simmer at medium high, stirring occasionally, for about 20-25 minutes reducing the sauce and cooking out most of the liquid. You are left with a very condensed flavorful sauce.

Add crab and all juices that accompany it and the 2 Tbsp. Basil. Cook another minute or 2.

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Turn off the heat and spoon in the Mascarpone. Stir in well until entirely incorporated. The sauce should turn a beautiful coral color.

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Add the sauce to the pasta and garnish with plenty of Fresh Basil.

SPAGHETTI WITH CRAB AND MASCARPONE SAUCE should not, as with most seafood sauces in Italy, be served with grated cheese. Enjoy with a lovely Soave or Chardonnay perhaps? Even a beautiful summer dry Rosé – Fantastico!

PARLA COME MANGI!

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July: Spiedies–Heaven on a Stick

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The Upstate New York Style Italian Favorite

Spiedies07

Buon giorno!

The long awaited post is here for the famous Upstate New York Italian favorite, SPIEDIES – or as I like to call them SPIEDIES –HEAVEN ON A STICK! The name has nothing to do with speed and everything to with the Big Daddy of spiedies which is spiedini, the Italian kebab or skewered and grilled meat. So what’s the big deal? Everyone knows how to make grilled kebabs. TRUE! But not everyone knows how to make good spiedies. In fact, the jury is still out in Upstate New York, around my hometown of Binghamton, as to who makes the best, how to make the best, and who’s got the goods on the marinade. They are so famous and popular up there that there is an annual August festival named for them complete with a Balloon Rally. However, even as the word on these meaty gems leaked out of New York sometime ago, many out there are still in the dark about them.

History: All might agree that the the modern day spiedie, as we know it, is the renowned favorite son of the Italian spiedini – which is a very old idea of meat grilled on a skewer over hot coals. Fact is, they really started in the Middle East where they had been “kebabing” for centuries. When the Middle Eastern conquerors invaded Italy, they brought with them many ingredients and cooking ideas that stuck – meat kebabs being one of them. As conquered lands tend to do, the Italians adopted and adapted.. and then.. made them better.The Italians do not add vegetables to their spiedini skewers – it is just a meat thing.

Upstate New York Origin: Most say the origins of these succulent chunks of meaty goodness reside in “greater” Binghamton and with brothers, Camillo and Agostino Iacovelli and Peter Sharak – restaurant owners. Many remember Peter Sharak’s noted hometown haunt, Sharkey’s Restaurant, that still draws spiedie-lovers to this day. From there, they just took off. Back in the 50’s, there wasn’t a barbeque in the Binghamton area that didn’t include spiedies. I remember our west side neighborhood cookouts always had them – usually tended on the grill by my father, Attilio. His spiedies were amazing, as he used his own special homemade marinade full of fresh ingredients and his “secrets.” Everyone has a spiedie story in Binghamton – not to mention a special method or marinade for them. Many commercial bottled sauces appeared over time and are still sold on supermarket shelves, most of which do not stack up, in my estimation, to a good fresh homemade version. Today, spiedies are served in Binghamton at an endless number of local “watering holes” like the ever popular Thirsty’s on the south side, and there is always much disagreement as to who indeed offers the best.

Specifics: Spiedies follow suit with spiedini’s presentation of meat only on the skewers. No veggies.Traditionally, the meat used is lamb (the leg) and/or pork (a tender cut like tenderloin is best). Venison spiedies are a delicacy in the Upstate New York area, where deer hunting is popular and provides a treasured bounty for this dish. Chicken spiedies are also commonly found, but less enjoyed by “connoisseurs”. See an example of chicken spiedies here:

chicken spiedies 2

Using a tender cut of meat helps to insure a tender result. Like everything else Italian, the secret is in the sauce, and when it comes to spiedini’s “sonny boy”, the spiedie, recipes for the sauces or marinades are the stuff of legend..and secrecy! Binghamton natives all know someone who claims to make the best. Determination of what and whose is best is wrapped up in the individual Binghamton memories we all have and cherish. What you remember in the way they tasted on a hot summer day after a ball game, or a bike ride, or a swim at nearby Quaker Lake – they are the best in your heart and forever will remain.

Tradition: It dictates that you need a slice of GOOD Italian bread which you use to “grab” several spiedies and slide them off the skewer. Then you eat them! No mustard, ketchup, special sauces, or condiments. Fancy gourmet embellishments are fiercely frowned upon.The idea is to enjoy the tenderness of the meat and savor that delicious marinade. I have seen the occasional imposter served on a bun. No No NO! The Italian bread is a must, and it better be of good quality.

Secret potions and promises taken to the grave: What? Well yeah! I know some who keep the secrets of their special marinade very close to the vest – never to be shared or divulged outside of the family. Some of these secrets are passed on to the next generation. I am the keeper of one of those family recipes, given to me by my father who didn’t even share it with my mother! Enough with family laundry! Although, Attilio’s infamous spiedie marinade cannot and shall not be revealed here, I have developed a really good marinade that I would like to share with you that I think rivals some of the best!

TIPS: Keep in mind that the freshness of some of the ingredients is critical to a good result. Good cuts of meat make a difference. I highly recommend using the more traditional leg of lamb and/or pork tenderloin. Beef is not and should not be used for good spiedies. Your spiedies should be tender and juicy. There is nothing worse than having a spiedie in your mouth that takes 20 minutes to chew and is a mass of sinew. If you don’t want to cut up the meat yourself, ask your butcher to do it.

Along with lamb from the leg, I used pork tenderloin for this demonstration. Because it is the very BEST pork, I chose  Circle B Ranch pork tenderloin.  Humanely raised and with careful feeding, their products are superior in flavor and tenderness. Chicken breast spiedies are good, as well, and get a bad rap, I think, because people dry them out by over cooking them.

The trick with all spiedies, regardless of the meat you choose, is to sear them on the outside at a higher temp and finish them at a lower temp without drying them out. Don’t overcook them!!

Also, many talk about the number of endless days ( a ritual) that they marinate their spiedies. The argument concerning how long to marinate will go on until the next century. I personally don’t like them to sit in the marinade past a couple of days. This is the reason – it is chemical – meat begins to break down when it sits in marinade (Wine and vinegar are two of the culprits). The texture changes as the muscle breaks down – in an undesirable way. The trick is to marinate it well and long enough– but not too long, ruining the integrity of the meat. The meat should taste like meat, especially if it is a good cut, not a mystery substance soaked in sauce.

That said.. let’s get to it. This is GOOOOD STUFF!

SPIEDIES

Makes: marinade for about 4 pounds of meat (6-8 people)

Prep: 15-20 minutes for marinade

Cook: 10-15 minutes

Ingredients: (important to use fresh ingredients where specified)

4 lb. Tender leg of lamb and/or pork tenderloin, or venison, or chicken breast – cut up into pieces about 1 1/2 inches

1 1/2 c. Olive Oil

Zest of 1 fresh lemon

Juice of a Large Fresh Lemon

1 Tbsp. Tomato Paste mixed with the lemon juice or vinegar

1/3 c. Balsamic Vinegar

1/3 c. Dry Red Wine

5 Cloves Fresh Garlic

2 Tsp. sugar

1 Tsp. Red Pepper Flakes

1 Tsp. Paprika

1 Crushed Large Bay Leaf

1 Tbsp. Fresh Thyme or Lemon Thyme

3 Tbsp. Fresh Rosemary – chopped

1 Tbsp. Fresh Mint – chopped

2 Tbsp. Fresh Oregano – chopped

3 Tbsp. Fresh Basil – chopped

3 Tbsp. Fresh Parsley – chopped

2 1/2 Tsp. Kosher Salt or more ( make sure to be generous with the salt as it brings out the flavors)

Plenty of Freshly Ground Black Pepper

Good Italian Bread

Instructions:

Meat should be cut and ready before making the marinade.

Mix all above marinade ingredients together well. A whisk is a good tool for this. If the marinade sits – re-whisk. Use fresh ingredients where indicated.

Spiedies01

TASTE the marinade!! Especially taste for salt. Plenty of salt and pepper is important. This brings out the flavor. If you don’t add enough – your spiedies will be bland.

Add the marinade to the meat immediately.

Spiedies02

Mix thoroughly, coating all the meat. Using your clean hands to do this is a good idea.

Spiedies03

Cover and refrigerate. I recommend marinating overnight or at most one more day. There is great controversy about this. Read the above text for the reason why I choose a shorter time.

Stir the meat once during the marinating process.

Skewer the meat just before grilling.

Place skewers on a VERY hot grill – close cover and SEAR quickly on all sides. Ideally you will have grill marks on the meat.

Spiedies04

Turn down the heat on the grill or move the skewers to a spot not as hot – use gloves – the skewers will be very hot. Finish the spiedies at a more moderate temperature. They don’t take long.

It is not recommended to keep using a marinade that raw meat has been sitting in. Discard the extra when finished.

Do not dry them out by over cooking. The cooking process should be fairly quick on a hot grill. Taste one! or two…or…

Spiedies05

Take them off the skewer with a slice of Italian Bread. Plan on about 4-5 spiedies per slice of bread.

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I dare you to stop tasting these!

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Grab yourself a cold brew and enjoy SPIEDIES like a Binghamtonian!! Guaranteed – they will become part of your barbeque fare.

PARLA COME MANGI!

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June: Risotto With Fresh Clams

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Clams Amalfi Style-

Clams Risotto16

Buon giorno!

The summer season is upon us and what better way to celebrate than with shellfish – more specifically CLAMS! But here’s a new twist on an old theme – RISOTTO WITH FRESH CLAMS! I like to call it Clams Amalfi Style. Everyone knows the classic Linguine Alle Vongole. This is a little different.

The sea-scented broth created by the clams offers a beautiful base for risotto just as it does for spaghetti or linguine. The flavor is almost intoxicating, and the colors in this dish are bright and vivid. Close your eyes and breathe in the aroma, letting your senses float to the Amalfi Coast. One can only imagine dining on the day’s catch among the famous lemon trees of the region, as the breezes drift in from the sea. Ahhhhh…

Wake up!! Attenzione! It’s time to give some attention to the distinctive elements this dish will bring to your table.The interesting thing about this particular preparation is that the recipe offers you two different uses for the same dish! The first is obvious – a delicious risotto and clams as an entrée presentation. The second is a stand alone appetizer or even main course using the clams alone, served with a crusty bread for dunking in the broth and served without the risotto. You often see mussels served this way, but not as often clams. They are delicious, attractive, and truly a gift from the sea.

An added benefit: Clams are very high in iron and can be a good source of this mineral in your diet. Healthy and delicious? You can’t lose!

The goods: For this recipe, I like to use a sweet tomato like the grape tomato. You can also use Campari Tomatoes. The grape variety is especially sweet and blends well with the briny nature of the clam juices. Plan to cook your clams first, as you’ll want to use some of the broth to make your risotto. Also plan on about 8-9 clams per person when making this with risotto and about a dozen per person when serving the clams alone. I like the addition of the sliced fennel in this and the touch of the optional Sambuca or Pernod. This gives the dish a slight hint of Provence or a Mediterranean stew.

Guarantee: You will love this so much – you’ll be making it with and without the risotto all summer long. There is nothing better than taking a steaming pot of the clams outdoors on a warm summer night to enjoy with your favorite white wine. Join me soon On the Patio for a pot of these lovelies and a crisp Falanghina!

RISOTTO WITH FRESH CLAMS

(Risotto Alle Vongole)

FIRST: the clams!

Serves: 4

Prep: 20 minutes

Cook: About 10 minutes

Ingredients

4 Tbsp. Butter

4 Tbsp. Olive Oil

2 Bulbs Sliced Fennel + 2 Fennel Fronds ( the fuzzy green stuff attached to the bulb) – for a quick lesson on slicing fennel click: HEREon my Roast Chicken post.

5 Cloves Fresh Garlic chopped finely

2 c. Fresh Grape Tomatoes – sliced in halves

1 c. Dry White Wine

Pinch of Saffron dissolved in the white wine

1 tsp. Sambuca or Pernod (optional)

1/4 tsp. Red Pepper Flakes

3 Dozen Fresh Clams (Cherrystone is a good one here)

2 Tbsp. Fresh Flat Leaf Parsley – chopped

3 Tbsp. Chopped Fresh Basil

Salt and pepper as needed

1 Tbsp. Fresh lemon juice

Extra Virgin Olive Oil for drizzling before serving

Instructions

Important – scrub your clams with a brush before using.

Clams Risotto02

Cook the garlic and fennel for a couple of minutes in the butter and oil. Then add the tomatoes. Cook about 5-6 minutes.

Clams Risotto01

Add the sliced tomatoes and cook covered for about 5 minutes at med. high.

Clams Risotto03

Add the white wine with the saffron threads dissolved in it and Sambuca or Pernod (if using) Don’t worry if saffron does not completely dissolve.

Clams Risotto04

Cook about 4 minutes letting the wine cook down and the tomatoes release their juices.

Add the pepper flakes and herbs. Stir.

Clams Risotto05

Season with Salt and Pepper. Taste for seasoning.

Add the clams – give a light stir.

Clams Risotto06

Add the fennel fronds -  then cover to cook on medium high for 10 minutes.

Clams should all open – discard any that do not.

Clams Risotto07

Add the lemon now.

Taste for seasoning.

Your clams are now finished – you can enjoy them as is, or reserve them for the risotto. If serving  the clams alone, add a crusty loaf for dunking!

Clams Risotto14

Before serving – drizzle with a good Extra Virgin Olive Oil.

SECOND:  the risotto!

Serves: 4

Prep: 15 minutes

Cook: About 40 minutes

Ingredients:

3 Tbsp. Olive Oil

3 Tbsp. Butter

2 c. Arborio Rice

1 Chopped Onion

1/2 c. Dry White Wine

1 c. Fresh Peas – if in season – if not, frozen is OK

4 c. Chicken broth – warm (keep a little extra handy in case you need it)

1/2 c. Parmigiano-Reggiano Cheese – grated (Montasio is also lovely in this)

2 Tbsp. Butter

Fresh Basil for garnish

Instructions

Keep chicken broth warm for adding to the risotto so that you don’t reduce the temperature of the risotto as you cook it.

Cook onion in butter and oil about 5 minutes.

Clams Risotto08

Add the rice and cook another 5 minutes, tossing and coating with the oil and butter.

Clams Risotto09

Add the wine and cook down a little.

Clams Risotto10

Add the fresh or frozen peas.

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Begin adding the warm chicken broth a ladle at a time. Let the rice absorb the liquid as you stir constantly, before adding the next ladle. Repeat this until the broth is incorporated. Alternate with some of the liquid from the clams – remember to stir.

Clams Risotto12

When the risotto is tender to the bite, add the butter and stir in as it melts. Then add the Parmigiano-Reggiano. Let it rest a couple of minutes.

Spoon the cooked clams with the tomatoes and fennel over the risotto along with remaining juices. You can also do this with individual servings, if you like.

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Top with a drizzle of a good Extra Virgin Olive Oil and a sprinkle of chopped fresh Basil.

RISOTTO WITH FRESH CLAMS is a beautiful “Amalfi Style” dish that you will be proud to serve as well as happy to eat. It is a perfect dish for summer enjoyment and is the ideal choice, I think, for Recipe of the Month for June. You’ll want to try them both with and without the risotto, and when you do, listen for “Come Back to Sorrento” as you enjoy this aromatic delicacy from the sea.

PARLA COME MANGI!

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May: Stuffed Baby Artichokes

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Carciofi in the Style of Venezia Giulia –

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Buon giorno!

Whoopee for Spring, a great season for veggies! So many new seasonal vegetables hit the markets during this time, with all of us getting excited about finding ways to serve them. Spring is definitely the time that we see artichokes entering the market scene. It’s funny though that people are often hesitant to cook with them. Either they don’t know how or they think it might be a lot of work.  Artichokes are not difficult to cook, but they do take a little time. Baby artichokes, however, which make their entrance to most markets in April, are much easier to deal with. In fact, baby artichokes are one of the most wonderful works of spring nature. They have all of the flavor and interest of a regular artichoke without the work! Troppo Bella!

Thus, it makes sense to discuss preparing an Italian favorite – Stuffed Baby Artichokes! This is a dish that some credit to the northern-most region of Friuli – Venezia Guilia which shares a border with Austria and partly nestles in the Carnic and Julian Alps. It is a tiny region rich in ancient Roman history with many ruins to prove it.

However, it is also a dish that can be found in many of the other regions of Italy with slight changes to the stuffing ingredients. In fact, it is one of my favorite dishes that my mother, Loretta, whose family came from Minturno, made. She used the regular sized artichokes. When using these, you must remove some of the tough outer leaves and also remove the nasty little “choke” inside before stuffing. Each whole one can make an entire meal for one person! If you use the big ones, make more stuffing, and cook them up to an hour until tender.

The great thing about the “babies” is that there is no choke to remove.  These are so easy and quick to prepare that you just won’t believe it.

(For more great recipes with Baby Artichokes try these posts: Spaghetti With Salmon, Baby Artichokes, and Tomatoes and Baby Artichokes Stuffed With Ricotta.)

STUFFED BABY ARTICHOKES

Serves: 6 as a side dish (2 apiece)

Prep: 35 minutes

Cook: 30-40 minutes

Ingredients

FOR THE STUFFING:

12 Baby Artichokes

Juice of one fresh lemon for soaking

2 c. fresh breadcrumbs (Preferably Italian bread)

2 Chopped Anchovies

2 Cloves fresh garlic chopped finely

1/2 C. Chopped fresh flat leaf Italian parsley

2 Tsp. Fresh Lemon Zest

2 Tbsp. Fresh Lemon Juice

3 Tbsp. Capers

3 Tbsp. Pignolis (pine nuts)

4 Tbsp. Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino Romano cheese (grated)

5 Tbsp. Olive Oil (this is the binder)

Salt and Pepper to taste

FOR THE PAN AROUND THE STUFFED CHOKES:

1 c. Olive oil

1 1/2 C. White wine or water or combination of the two

TOPPING:

Extra grated or shredded Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino Romano to sprinkle on top of each artichoke

Extra Virgin Olive Oil for drizzle

Instructions:

(If using regular sized artichokes, plan to make more stuffing and cook them longer – about an hour or until the leaves are tender and remove easily from the artichoke. Tasting one is the way to go.)

Mix the ingredients for the stuffing and set aside

For the babies:

Prepare a bowl with juice of 1 lemon and enough water to cover the baby artichokes after you trim them.

To trim: Cut off the baby artichoke stem at the bottom, just so the artichoke will stand up straight when set down. Take off the touch outer leaves. Cur off the pointed tip of the artichoke, making it appear flatter on the top.

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Pull the leaves apart gently with your thumbs to open the artichoke a little – so that it kind of looks like a flower. There is no choke to remove in the babies.

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Do this all quickly as the trimmed artichokes want to brown when exposed to the air. It takes about 35 seconds per artichoke. Yes, I timed it!  Drop them quickly into the prepared bowl of water.

Take out one artichoke at a time and gently push some of the stuffing down between the leaves and into the center. Stand each one in your pan.

Top each one with a little extra grated cheese.

Drizzle with some good Extra Virgin Olive Oil if you like.

Pour the olive oil, white wine and water into the pan around the artichokes.

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Cover and simmer on top of the stove for about 30-35 min. or until tender.

Do not allow the liquid to dry up – add more if needed.

  Whether using the large “adult” artichokes or the “babies, you will love these. Plan on providing lots of napkins for these STUFFED BABY ARTICHOKES, and watch as everyone licks their fingers! The “hubster” at my house, Tom Hanks, is a huge fan of the babies and can’t get enough of them. Although artichokes are notoriously hard to pair with wine, a beautiful white is my suggestion to enjoy with these – perhaps a nice Vermentino or Sauvignon Blanc.

PARLA COME MANGI!

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April: Asparagus Frittata with Leeks and Ricotta

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Asparagus-Frittata

Buon giorno!

Frittatas are funny little “creatures”. You can adapt them to serve at almost any time of day or likewise for almost any need at your table. This ASPARAGUS FRITTATA WITH LEEKS & RICOTTA is no different in this regard and will definitely be a crowd pleaser. It is just as simple to prepare as any frittata – but this one is a little bit different in its buttery and creamy flavor. The addition of buttery leeks and creamy ricotta is responsible for this.

The resulting frittata is a delicious spring delight, bursting with goodness and flavor, largely from the vegetables themselves. It is a first choice, for sure, for breakfast, brunch, and lunch. However, it is a great selection as an appetizer cut into smaller pieces and served cold or room temperature as a finger food.

A word about the ingredients:

 I suggest using good whole milk ricotta for this, as you are entrusting the ricotta to make this a rich and creamy frittata. You might want to mash it with a fork first.

As for the asparagus I usually like to trim my asparagus, but it is optional. It’s probably a good idea if it is especially thick and fibrous.

The leeks in this dish are an amazing addition.

Leeks

There aren’t many things in life more tasty than a buttered leek! However, when cooking with leeks, it is important to clean them properly and thoroughly. This is not a difficult thing. It just takes an extra moment or two. Cut off the root end and also trim off the leek where it begins to go bright green. For this dish, you’ll want to slice them up and drop them all in a bowl of cold water. Swish them around with your hands until any sand is loosened from them. Drain them and rinse again if needed. That’s it!

So simple – you just won’t believe it!

ASPARAGUS FRITTATA WITH LEEKS & RICOTTA

Serves: 6 (definitely more if used as an appetizer)

Prep: 40 minutes

Cook: 10 minutes

Ingredients

1 bunch asparagus – trim the ends and peel if needed. Drizzle with olive oil, add salt and pepper, and roast at 400 degrees until tender – about 10-12 min. depending on the thickness of your asparagus.Set aside.

asparagus

3 Leeks (About 2 1/2 c. sliced) rinsed and cleaned of any sand

2 Tbsp. Butter melted

1 Tbsp. Olive Oil

1 Whole shallot chopped (that means use the whole bulb with the multiple cloves)

2 Tbsp. Butter

1 Tbsp. Olive Oil

12 Large Eggs – beaten

1/4 c. Heavy Cream

Salt and pepper to taste

3/4 c. Grated or shredded Pecorino Cheese

1 Tbsp. chopped fresh Rosemary

1 c. Whole Milk Ricotta – mashed a little with a fork to soften

Extra Virgin Olive Oil for drizzling

Instructions

After roasting the asparagus, cut off the ends leaving the spear at about 3-4 inches long. Chop the ends into pieces about an inch long. Keep the spears and the chopped ends separate.

Leeks: slice off and discard the root. Cut the bright green part off and discard. Cut the remaining leek in sliced rounds, drop in a bowl with cold water and swish around to clean the sand from the rounds. Rinse again if needed and drain off the water. Pat the leeks dry.

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Toss the leeks in the melted butter and oil, add salt and pepper and roast at 400 or saute, if preferred until tender.

Roasted leeks

Put butter and oil in a saute pan, heat and add chopped shallots. Cook until tender – about 5 minutes.

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Add the cream, salt, pepper, cheese, and Rosemary to the beaten eggs and mix together and pour into a large oiled fry pan.

Distribute the cooked leeks and chopped roasted asparagus throughout the eggs in the pan and press them in a little to make them sink.

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Spoon dollops of ricotta into the eggs all around. Do not mix together. Just let the dollops sit there.

Place the roasted asparagus spears around the surface of the frittata in a decorative manner that suits you.

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Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Cook the frittata on the top of the stove at medium to medium high until partially set. The bottom and sides should be set with the middle runny.

Place the fry pan in the preheated oven and bake until set in the middle – about 10 minutes.

Slide the frittata out of the pan onto a plate. It should come right out with a little nudge from a spatula. Drizzle your best Extra Virgin Olive Oil over the top before serving.

Enjoy this ASPARAGUS FRITTATA WITH LEEKS & RICOTTA with a crisp white wine, like Donna Anita Langhe Arneis (my new favorite Italian white) or a Sauvignon Blanc, or as an appetizer, with almost any cocktail. And yes – it is one of those dishes that will make you want to race for a seat “On the Patio” to fully enjoy its fresh spring goodness. See you there!

PARLA COME MANGI!

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March: If It’s Sunday, It’s Braciole!

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The Braciole, Braciole, and More Braciole Series – Part 1

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Buon giorno!

When I was growing up in our little house in Binghamton, NY, Braciole was a big deal. It wasn’t part of those random Tuesday night dinners with sauce. It was reserved for special family gatherings, usually on Sundays. If you’re Italian, you know what I mean – the kind that lasted for 3 hours.  Even as a child, I knew If It’s Sunday, It’s Braciole! My mother, Loretta, would make it a day ahead. She used lard in it, as so many really good cooks did in those days. Ah, everything tasted better then.

Because Braciole is so memorable to Italians and in Italian cooking, I decided that it warranted a series of posts- specifically three -  and not just one. Thus, The Braciole, Braciole, and More Braciole Series seemed inevitable! Is it THAT good? Yes, it is—and it’s also about that memory thing again. It is a part of the fond memories of most Italians who can recite who in their upbringing made the very best. In my case, it would definitely be my mother.

Ok – so you’re not Italian, and don’t have the inside skinny on what we’re talking about here. Braciole is a classic Italian meat dish – pronounced “bra-shol-e” – accent on the second syllable. It is probably found in every region in Italy in some form and using all different types of meat. In some regions, it is called “involtini”. The traditional Neapolitan preparation uses rolled beef – usually top round or flank steak. It is pounded thin, stuffed, rolled, tied with string, browned in olive oil, and then left to simmer in a beautiful sea of tomato sauce until done. That is the style we will use to begin our series. When the Braciole is ready to be served, each roll is removed from the sauce. The strings are clipped and discarded, and the rolls are cut into beautiful slices revealing the stuffing within.

The Braciole is often served with pasta. The pasta is served first, with the sliced meat usually following. One of my favorite ways to eat the Braciole in sauce is with polenta. The sauce is always quite flavorful and makes the polenta a beautiful receptacle for its red goodness – not to mention a lovely choice to have with the meat. That is the way you will see it in the series, but you can just as easily serve it with your favorite pasta.

Later in the series, we will take a turn with the Braciole and prepare it in a completely different way using pork tenderloin. This will be a complete departure from the slowly cooked Braciole in sauce. Stay tuned!

Loretta most often made one or two large rolls. In this series, we’ll make some smaller ones – so each person has his own “personal Braciole”. If you’d like to make the larger ones, you can, using the same instructions. Just use larger pieces of meat. The first recipe for Braciole is one my mother made often: Braciole Napoletana . A recipe for a simple tomato sauce for the “grand simmer” is included.

This is how it’s done:

BRACIOLE NAPOLETANA

(first recipe in the Braciole Series)

Makes: about 6 smaller individual ones or 1 or 2 large ones

Serves: 4 – 6

Prep: 30-35 min.

Cook: 2 1/2 hours

Ingredients

1 1/2 lb beef top round or flank steak – if meat is thick butterfly it or ask your butcher to do this. You’ll want thin slices of meat for rolling.

Olive Oil

1/2 c. Chopped Fresh Flat Leaf Parsley

1/2 c. Dry Breadcrumbs

1/2 c. Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Cheese or Grated Aged Provolone Cheese

2 tbsp. Garlic chopped finely

1/2 c. Pignolis – toast them a little

Salt and Pepper to taste

Toothpicks or string (butcher’s twine) to secure the rolls

3-4 Tbsp. Olive oil for browning

Tomato Sauce ( see recipe for this to follow)

Instructions

You’ll need a mallet or something heavy to pound the meat. This type of mallet comes with a side with sharp points for tenderizing.

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Lay the meat out on a board. Pound with a mallet to thin and beat with tenderizer side to further tenderize the meat.

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If making  smaller ones cut the meat into 5-6” slices.

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Rub each slice with olive oil. Follow with a sprinkle of chopped parsley, breadcrumbs, cheese, garlic, pignolis and salt and pepper to taste.

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Roll each slice vertically and secure with toothpicks or string.

You can use 2 or 3 strings to secure the smaller ones. If making large ones, use more string or toothpicks.

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Brown the rolls in olive oil. When finished – remove them and make the sauce in the same pan.

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TOMATO SAUCE

Prep: 5 min.

Cook: 2 1/2 hours for Braciole

Ingredients:

2 Tbsp. Olive oil

2 Cloves Garlic chopped

1 c. Red Wine

1 28 oz. Can San Marzano Tomatoes – give them a quick turn or 2 in the blender first

1 Tbsp. Tomato Paste (dilute the paste in 1/2 c. water – stir well until dissolved into the water)

2 Tbsp. Fresh Flat Leaf Parsley – chopped

1 Tbsp. Fresh Oregano leaves – chopped

2 Tbsp. Fresh Basil – chopped

1 Parmigiano-Reggiano Cheese Rind

Instructions:

Add Olive oil to the pan. Add garlic and cook a minute or two. Do not burn the garlic.

If using the sauce for Braciole, add the browned rolls back to the pan now.

With your heat turned up to medium high, add the red wine and scraped up the bits from the bottom of the pan.

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Turn the rolls to coat in the wine as it cooks down for a couple of minutes.

Add the tomatoes to the pan, followed by the paste in water, herbs, and rind.

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Cover the pan or pot and simmer for 1 1/2 hours . Stir gently occasionally to turn the rolls.

Uncover the pot for the last hour of cooking to thicken.

Remove rolls before serving and remove and discard toothpicks and strings. Slice the rolls thickly.

Serve with plenty of grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. The Braciole Napoletana is lovely served with pasta or polenta and your favorite vino rosso. For polenta see the post: Polenta – It’s So Corny

Be sure to look for the next post in this series!

PARLA COME MANGI!

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LINDA’S ITALIAN TABLE

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Food Photos By Tommy Hanks Photography

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