BISTECCA ALLA FIORENTINA

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Florentine Steak

How to Rock a Steak Like a Tuscan!

Steak_18a

Buon giorno!

Here’s the beef! Do Italians really eat steak? We thought pasta was their thing. WRONG! Italians are definitely about more than pasta. Not only do they eat  and prepare steak with the same simplicity and respect for ingredients that you see in their other dishes but their preparation is given the same precision. Nowhere do they do it better than in Tuscany, home of the infamous Bistecca Alla Fiorentina or Florentine Steak, among the most classic of all Italian dishes. (Fiorentina – means in the style of Florence) The preparation of this dish is so simple and easy, you might wonder – what’s the big deal? I’m here to tell you that this simplicity IS the big deal.

I know, I know – everyone has his/her favorite method of cooking steak. This is a little different, and I offer only guidelines, as I am not right there to peer into your grill detecting the hotness or intensity of the fire. All I can say  is – this is different –it is the Florentine way – and it results in an amazing piece of meat.

First, back to the pasture: Italy is not known for its abundance of grazing land. Thus, less beef is eaten in many regions than other meats. The finest of these areas are located in the North. Ah – but then… there’s Tuscany! A drumroll please… It is here in the renowned Val di Chiana near Arezzo that the revered Chianina cattle make their home and provide the steak for the authentic preparation of Bistecca Alla Fiorentina. These animals are always white and provide some of the finest steaks in Italy. Pronounced: kya-NEE-na, these cattle are the largest breed in the world and among the oldest dating back over 2200 years. Because of the high quality of tender and juicy meat and the nutritional value they have been cross-bred with cattle throughout the world.

The Tuscan Way: Typically, Tuscans cook very simply with the best of ingredients. They do not douse their culinary creations in fancy complicated sauces. Aside from relying on good ingredients, the Tuscans, look more to method – how a dish or a meat is prepared. In this case, Tuscans follow some definite rules. The authenticity of the steak dish is all-important. Aside from using the Chianina beef, the cut needs to be perfect – from the vitellone or young steer (not a calf) – uh – and well hung, as they say. No joke – it’s true!  Alas, in this case, folks, size does matter. The steak must be at least an inch thick and cut from the rib. The usual portion designated for two is 2 1/2 pounds, and the cut is preferably Porterhouse with the filet and contre filet. However a T-bone is a fine choice. A 2 1/2 inch thick steak or “three fingers” is perfect.

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Dry, Dry, Baby: Obviously, dry-aged is the way to go if you can, but the pocketbook does not always allow. To go the extra mile, and get the most out of what you have, you can dry your steak a little beforehand as described by the blog,  Memorie di Angelina : Try propping the steak up on chopsticks  for a few hours so that air can travel underneath and take some of the wetness out of the meat. This is definitely worth doing, folks. You can also repeat this chopstick idea after grilling when you are letting the steak rest for a few minutes.

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Burn Notice: Never, never, never overcook a Tuscan steak. It’s a rule! (and a tragedy)  Customarily, the steak is grilled over charcoal or wood fire. Just a few short minutes on each side, you’re done. A true “Fiorentina” is traditionally served rare – but the idea is to enjoy it – so if you must have it a little more “done”, have at it.

The Slicing: You will always see this steak cut in one characteristic fashion which is straight across the meat, with the filet removed first ( if you have a Porterhouse) and then then the contre filet or strip steak.

Oh By the way: My husband, Tom, likes to take the leftover steak (“as if” there is any left) and lightly fry it up in a little olive oil with a fried egg the morning after. He says this is not your Waffle House Steak and Eggs –it’s the best you will ever taste. Put it on your bucket list. A “must do”.

Perfection: You can find Bistecca Alla Fiorentina virtually anywhere in the Florence area. When it’s good – it’s perfection!

Fire up that grill for the best steak you’ll ever have! Move over, “favorite steakhouse” – you no longer need their services.

BISTECCA ALLA FIORENTINA

Serves: 2

Cook time: about 20-24 minutes for the size indicated–for rare Fiorentina style

Rest: 5-10 minutes

Ingredients:

1  2 1/2 pound Porterhouse or T-Bone Steak about 2 – 2 1/2 in. thick – or even 3 if you like!  We’re talkin’ thick here. Go with the 3 finger rule!

Extra Virgin Olive Oil for brushing and drizzling

Sea Salt or Coarse Salt

Freshly Ground Pepper

Lemon Wedges or Grilled Lemon Halves

Instructions:

Important: Take steak out of refrigerator at least an hour before cooking (2 is better) and bring down to room temp – results will always improve by doing this. Try the chopsticks method mentioned in the text.

Sprinkle with Sea Salt and fresh pepper generously just after you take it out. This helps to form a crust when grilled. Lots of Sea Salt or coarse salt is necessary before and after the grilling.

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When ready, heat up your grill to very hot – preferably using charcoal or wood fire (You’re going to want some good smoke here – I prefer wood – oak, hickory etc)

Grill the steak 3-4 inches from the fire.

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Plan on about 8 minutes per side for the rare Fiorentina style, (plus a few minutes standing on the bone) if your steak is in the 2 1/2 inch range, but the time will depend on how you like it. The time will ultimately be determined by how hot your grill is and how you prefer the meat. This is only a guide. Keep in mind that the steak will continue to cook a little after you remove it from the grill. The thicker the steak – the longer the cook time. If 3 inches – plan on about 20-24 minutes total on a hot and smoking grill for rare meat alla Fiorentina.

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When the first side is done – flip the steak over and cook that side.

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When the second side is finished, some like to stand the steak on the grill upright on the bone side for about 4 minutes. This forces the blood away from the bone and provides more even cooking.

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A note: Be careful – the tenderloin side will cook faster than the strip or contre filet side. Move the steak around to accommodate as necessary.

Let the steak rest for about 5-10 minutes after removing from grill.

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Just before serving, Salt and pepper again and drizzle with Extra Virgin Olive Oil.

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The slicing is part of tradition and authenticity. It is done this way:

Cut the filet out first.

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Then cut out the contre filet or the strip steak.

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Then slice each section. It is usually served as you see here.

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Serve with lemon wedges or grilled lemon halves. I like earthy choices for sides here: some beautiful sauteed wild mushrooms along with a bowl of Tuscan white beans seasoned with a little olive oil, coarse salt, and fresh Rosemary.

The Finish: A steak like this prepared in an authentic fashion must always, in my book, be served with the very best you can afford in a beautiful red wine. Many like Barolo, but my first selection would be the smooth and always lovely Brunello di Montalcino. Casalino 2006 DOCG is a beauty. A fine Chianti Classico Riserva would also give this fine steak its proper due.

Not another word necessary!

PARLA COME MANGI!

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MIXED ANTIPASTO

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All Mixed Up !

Antipasto_7

Buon giorno!

There have been some requests for a discussion of traditional Antipasto. Many of you who were born and raised on Mortadella and Provolone might scratch your heads and say “why”? Yes, it comes as second nature to us who may have teethed on pepperoni. However, there are many out there who really don’t know how to create one properly, and also many who might be intimidated by the elaborate designs of the Antipasti they have seen or sampled. Before all of the Italians start yawning and those intimidated non-Italians start to run for the hills  – ASPETTA!! (WAIT!) The Mixed Antipasto of today’s post is not quite what you might expect. It is easy, quick, and beautiful to look at.  So listen up!

A quick tutorial: In Italian, Antipasto is one. The plural is Antipasti. Very simply, it means “before the meal”.

Tradition: The traditional image is that of a platter of several different types of Italian cold meats, cheeses, olives, anchovies, and pickled or marinated vegetables, all lined up and served with crusty bread. Another visual is Antipasto served on a very special “relish” platter with separate compartments for each item kind of like that old Swanson TV dinner container we all remember which creates a kind of deconstructed arrangement. No two items touch or mingle. Other traditional forms include all sorts of elaborate flower or kaleidoscope-like patterns with meats rolled tightly, lined up like little tin soldiers, resembling the choreography of the Rockettes. I think this might be where the intimidation got started. If you didn’t have the time, the“knack” or better yet, a degree in Architecture, why would you bother to pursue it?

Types: Aside from the one described above which is the image we most often conjure when we think of Antipasto, there are other types. There is the one made entirely of fish – all types of seafood including octopus, calamari, shrimp, cuttlefish, sardines, mussels, clams, anchovies – I am out of breath… There is the Easter Antipasto of my youth which was the essence of spring with devilled eggs, basket cheese, spring green onions, olives, orange slices, fennel etc.

Universal item: If someone were to ask me what I thought might be the one item you would probably find in all good Antipasti, I would say… the olive! I can’t even imagine an Antipasto of any kind with some kind of olive. In this arena, there are no limits – ANY olive is great but you MUST have at least one type. Of course, the Gaeta, Cerignola, and the vivid green Castelvetrano etc are divine – but be prepared to pit them. This is definitely worth the trouble, if you have the time. Biting into an olive pit can be dangerous to one’s million dollar smile, and really lets the air out of the balloon, if you know what I mean in terms of an unpleasant experience. However, even pitted Kalamatas or regular old black olives are very acceptable. Just make sure you include the olives.

The Secret: Once again, the secret to making the best possible anything when it comes to Italian food including Antipasto is the ingredients. Always select the best and freshest ingredients, and even the simplest Antipasto will be heavenly. Look for good Italian cold meats. Use aged provolone or fresh mozzarella. Drizzle or marinate with the best of the Extra Virgins and Balsamicos .If you can roast your own peppers as in our post, Sovana and the Mystery Dish (LINK), all the better. Last but hardly least, always use fresh herbs and fresh lemon juice. The ingredients will be the difference between the bad fake and la cosa reale. Ain’t nothin’ like the real thing!

Shake it up, Baby: Keeping all of the do’s and don’ts in mind, the very best in Italian cooking was not carved into tablets and presented on Mt. Sinai. As long as your ingredients are good and true, you can tweak things once in a while and still keep the faith. We’ll take what we know, and just shake it up a little. It is in that spirit, that we will make a MIXED ANTIPASTO today. This is perfect for the cook who doesn’t have a lot of time but wants to serve something that looks like she/he does.  Our ingredients will be good, our herbs and lemons fresh, and our oils the best we can afford. Today, THAT is where we will depart from tradition and “mix it up”.

The MIXED ANTIPASTO feeds a crowd. We don’t have to labor over design with a set of blueprints. We can mix it ahead, and it will make incredible leftovers for sandwiches. Uh – don’t expect much in the way of leftovers. They usually can’t leave this one alone. You won’t have to worry about it sitting out as it does not have a tendency to spoil.  It is a conversation inducer: everyone gathers around talking and eating versus wandering about with a cracker. With just one spoon, you get a little of everything on your plate. It is great for a lunch, a buffet, a first course, an appetizer, and outdoors – On the Patio!

MIXED ANTIPASTO

Prep: 35-40 minutes

Serves: About 10  (just cut in half if you need less- but it keeps well for leftovers)

Ingredients:

Marinated Mushrooms: Marinate 3/4 lb fresh cremini or baby bella mushroom halves several hours ahead of putting your antipasto together. Marinate mushrooms with:  1/4 c. extra virgin olive oil, 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar, fresh basil chopped, 1 clove garlic chopped and salt and pepper to taste. I like to add a small amount of red pepper flakes. Refrigerate until ready to combine with the rest of ingredients.

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Meats: Any combination of the following meats can be used. Use all or a few. Cut all meats into pieces. I’ll show you some of them.

1/3 lb Genoa or Hard Salami

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1/4 lb Mortadella

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1/4 lb Prosciuttto

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1/3 lb Capicolla

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1/4 lb Pepperoni or Sopressata

1/4 lb Bresaola

 

Cheeses: Cut into edible sized chunks

1/2 lb Aged Provolone ( make sure to use aged – the one that smells like sox!)

1/2 lb Fresh Mozzarella

Other ingredients: Again, use any combination – best using all!

2 c. Cherry, Grape, or Campari tomatoes – cut in halves or quarters

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3/4 c. Peperoncini cut up

1 c. Roasted Red Peppers (can be home roasted or from the jar)- cut into strips

1 c. Olives – Pitted Kalamatas were used for the demonstration here –Gaetas, Castelvetranos, Cerignolas all good – but make sure to pit them.

14 oz can rinsed and quartered artichoke hearts

2 oz. can anchovies cut up – or use just a few – you SHOULD use them – they melt into the dish when mixed, but the flavor they add is incomparable.

1/2 c. capers, rinsed and drained

Any other pickled vegetables such as carrots, cauliflower etc. are always welcome.

Dressing: Mix the following together:

Juice of 1/2 Fresh Lemon

1/3 c. Extra Virgin Olive Oil

3 Tbsp Balsamic Vinegar

3 Cloves Fresh Garlic – chopped

Instructions:

Gently toss all of the meats, cheeses, and other ingredients together. Then pour the dressing over and toss together well.

Garnish and mix again:

1/2 c. Chopped Fresh Basil ( or use whole leaves)

1/2 c. Chopped Fresh Parsley

Pinch of Red Pepper Flakes

At this point taste for seasoning and add salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Important: Refrigerate Antipasto until ready to serve. Just before serving taste for seasoning and add more of dressing, salt, pepper if needed. Drizzle with Extra Virgin Olive Oil.

Serving: This makes a beautiful and colorful presentation in a large glass bowl. Serve with small plates as an appetizer. The beauty of this is that everyone gets a little of everything quickly by spooning it onto their plate. Find a fresh loaf of Italian bread or Focaccia and have PLENTY on hand to serve with this dish.

Vino: Because of the dominance of meats and the earthy nature of the cheeses, I like a red wine and suggest a Ripassa Valpolicella, a Barbera D’Alba, Aglianico, or even a good Chianti Classico Riserva.

PARLA COME MANGI!

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Subscribe to my free blog

 

Also: See the RECIPE OF THE MONTH on

LINDA’S ITALIAN TABLE

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Food Photos By Tommy Hanks Photography


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