Stuffed Rock Cornish Game Hens & Cranberry Sauce

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Buon giorno!

In my – ahem- younger years, one of my favorite dishes, was my mother, Loretta’s, Stuffed Rock Cornish Game Hens. She made hers in different ways, sometimes using rice , sometimes bread. Often, the preparation was influenced by my father, Attilio’s, special game dishes. He would try to slip something of his own in the stuffing when she wasn’t looking. It was usually some sort of dried fruit that he always used with his game birds, and of course a good slug of wine would get in there— somehow.

Rock Cornish Game Hens aren’t really “game” at all. They are domestically raised and a cross between Cornish and Plymouth Rock chickens. They are small  – bigger than quail – but smaller than pheasant. A hen fits neatly in the palm of one hand. One hen provides a hefty meal for a hearty appetite, but more often will be plenty for 2 people. They are different from chicken in that they are extremely tender, delicately flavored, and juicy – even the white meat. Although they are not considered “game”, they are probably the nearest domestic bird to the wild and most often treated as such in their preparation, using many of the same sauces, cooking styles, and ingredients such as fruit, wine, brandy, sausage, and wild mushrooms.

First – to Italia! Italians are known for being avid hunters. They hunt pigeon, pheasant (fagiano), quail, ducks, geese, doves, venison, hare, and the infamous wild boar (Cinghiale) of Tuscany. Italians eat all kinds of birds – even peacock! In Renaissance times, the nobility in the Northern regions set up their own personal hunting reserves on their land complete with lodges. With only the upper classes given the privilege of hunting there, the peasants were left to catching the occasional “stray”. Aside from their celebrated wild boar dishes and sauces, the Tuscans are also noted for their recipes for guinea hens and hare.

It’s in the cooking: It is common for these Italian hunters to be excellent cooks, in particular, as it pertains to game. My father was one who spared nothing when it came to preparing his “birds”. He made his own sausage for the stuffing, used all kinds of dried and fresh fruits, and prepared his sauces also from the fruits accompanied by different types of brandy and, of course, his favorite Valpolicella wine.  He used pork fat of differing types to give the wild and lean birds more flavor and moisture.

Today, I will give the Stuffed Rock Cornish Game Hens & Cranberry Sauce the “game treatment” and dress them for a special holiday table. In keeping with family tradition, you will recognize some of the ingredients used by Attilio for his game birds. You will love these!

STUFFED ROCK CORNISH GAME HENS & CRANBERRY SAUCE

Serves: 4

Prep:

Cook:

THE HENS:

Ingredients:

2 Rock Cornish Game Hens ( available at any grocer)

2 Tbsp. Olive Oil

1/4 lb. Pancetta – chopped + 4 slices Pancetta for top of hens

1 Medium Onion – shopped

1 Stalk Celery – chopped

2 Tbsp Fresh Parsley – chopped

1 Tbsp. Fresh Sage – chopped

1 Tbsp. Fresh Oregano – chopped

2 Tsp. Fresh Rosemary – chopped

1/2 c. Dried Apricots – chopped

1/2 c. Dried Cranberries

3 c. Italian Bread – broken into pieces – crusts removed – place in large bowl

1 Egg

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Instructions:

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Rinse hens and pat dry. Salt & pepper inside and outside of hens. Place in baking dish.

Cook chopped pancetta in oil until crisp – remove pancetta and set aside.

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In same pan, sauté onion, celery & herbs until tender.

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Add apricots & cranberries, salt and pepper and cook stirring about 3 minutes.

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Add the ingredients from the pan to the bread pieces. Combine and add crisp pancetta pieces.

Taste for seasoning and adjust if necessary.

Add egg and mix well.

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Stuff hens with as much as you can get in each cavity. Pack them well. This is just about exactly the amount needed for 2 hens.

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Stick pieces of butter between the legs and body and between the wings and body. Place pancetta slices on top of hens – 2 for each.

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Place hens in the oven and immediately reduce the temperature to 350 degrees. Roast for about one hour and 20 minutes. The cooking time may vary with different ovens. This is only a guideline. Check your birds to make sure.

When finished, remove slices of pancetta from tops of hens . If you need more browning at the end of the cook time -  increase oven to 400, and put the hens back in the oven to finish. If needed, leave them until they are at the desired browning or for about 15 more min. The amount of time will depend on how brown they are, how brown you like them, and your oven.

Remove from oven and –IMPORTANT: let them sit for 20 minutes before cutting so they will re-absorb their own juices. Slice each hen down the middle to serve one half per person.

SAUCE:

Makes: About 1 1/2 cups – enough for 2 hens.

Prep: 10 minutes

Cook: 20-25 min.

Ingredients:

3 Tbsp. butter

1 Medium onion – chopped

1 Tbsp. Fresh Basil – chopped

1 Tbsp. Fresh Thyme – chopped

1/4 tsp. Ground Cloves

1/2 Tsp. Ground Cinnamon

2 Tsp. grated Orange Zest

1/2 c. Red Wine  + 1 Tbsp Red wine for mixing cornstarch

1 c. chicken broth

1 1/2 c. Fresh Cranberries

3 Tbsp. Sugar

2 Tsp. Balsamic Vinegar

1 Large Spring Fresh Rosemary

Instructions:

Cook onion in butter until tender.

Add basil, thyme, spices, orange zest.

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Mix together and add wine – cook down a 3-4 minutes.

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Add chicken broth – Cook about 8 minutes

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Add cranberries, sugar, and vinegar. Cook about 10 minutes. Watch the cranberries burst and bubble!

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Add Salt and pepper to taste.

Remove from heat.

Dissolve 1 tsp. cornstarch in the 1 Tbsp. Red Wine and add to the sauce. Stir in – it should thicken immediately. If sauce needs reheating before you use it – do not let it boil as it will thin. Just heat on low.

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Serve over or under your hens  – whatever your preference.

To Serve: I love this dish! It easily makes a romantic dinner for two. At the same time, it is a stunning holiday or dinner party dish. It almost screams “Build me a fire!” Soft candlelight wouldn’t hurt either. You need very little else with this one – perhaps a simple green vegetable. For the vino, I like a Valpolicella or a Barbera with this both in the sauce and for drinking.

For that one perfect evening, put these Stuffed Cornish Game Hens & Cranberry Sauce on your table and you’ll own ‘em!

PARLA COME MANGI!

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MIXED ANTIPASTO

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All Mixed Up !

Antipasto_7

Buon giorno!

There have been some requests for a discussion of traditional Antipasto. Many of you who were born and raised on Mortadella and Provolone might scratch your heads and say “why”? Yes, it comes as second nature to us who may have teethed on pepperoni. However, there are many out there who really don’t know how to create one properly, and also many who might be intimidated by the elaborate designs of the Antipasti they have seen or sampled. Before all of the Italians start yawning and those intimidated non-Italians start to run for the hills  – ASPETTA!! (WAIT!) The Mixed Antipasto of today’s post is not quite what you might expect. It is easy, quick, and beautiful to look at.  So listen up!

A quick tutorial: In Italian, Antipasto is one. The plural is Antipasti. Very simply, it means “before the meal”.

Tradition: The traditional image is that of a platter of several different types of Italian cold meats, cheeses, olives, anchovies, and pickled or marinated vegetables, all lined up and served with crusty bread. Another visual is Antipasto served on a very special “relish” platter with separate compartments for each item kind of like that old Swanson TV dinner container we all remember which creates a kind of deconstructed arrangement. No two items touch or mingle. Other traditional forms include all sorts of elaborate flower or kaleidoscope-like patterns with meats rolled tightly, lined up like little tin soldiers, resembling the choreography of the Rockettes. I think this might be where the intimidation got started. If you didn’t have the time, the“knack” or better yet, a degree in Architecture, why would you bother to pursue it?

Types: Aside from the one described above which is the image we most often conjure when we think of Antipasto, there are other types. There is the one made entirely of fish – all types of seafood including octopus, calamari, shrimp, cuttlefish, sardines, mussels, clams, anchovies – I am out of breath… There is the Easter Antipasto of my youth which was the essence of spring with devilled eggs, basket cheese, spring green onions, olives, orange slices, fennel etc.

Universal item: If someone were to ask me what I thought might be the one item you would probably find in all good Antipasti, I would say… the olive! I can’t even imagine an Antipasto of any kind with some kind of olive. In this arena, there are no limits – ANY olive is great but you MUST have at least one type. Of course, the Gaeta, Cerignola, and the vivid green Castelvetrano etc are divine – but be prepared to pit them. This is definitely worth the trouble, if you have the time. Biting into an olive pit can be dangerous to one’s million dollar smile, and really lets the air out of the balloon, if you know what I mean in terms of an unpleasant experience. However, even pitted Kalamatas or regular old black olives are very acceptable. Just make sure you include the olives.

The Secret: Once again, the secret to making the best possible anything when it comes to Italian food including Antipasto is the ingredients. Always select the best and freshest ingredients, and even the simplest Antipasto will be heavenly. Look for good Italian cold meats. Use aged provolone or fresh mozzarella. Drizzle or marinate with the best of the Extra Virgins and Balsamicos .If you can roast your own peppers as in our post, Sovana and the Mystery Dish (LINK), all the better. Last but hardly least, always use fresh herbs and fresh lemon juice. The ingredients will be the difference between the bad fake and la cosa reale. Ain’t nothin’ like the real thing!

Shake it up, Baby: Keeping all of the do’s and don’ts in mind, the very best in Italian cooking was not carved into tablets and presented on Mt. Sinai. As long as your ingredients are good and true, you can tweak things once in a while and still keep the faith. We’ll take what we know, and just shake it up a little. It is in that spirit, that we will make a MIXED ANTIPASTO today. This is perfect for the cook who doesn’t have a lot of time but wants to serve something that looks like she/he does.  Our ingredients will be good, our herbs and lemons fresh, and our oils the best we can afford. Today, THAT is where we will depart from tradition and “mix it up”.

The MIXED ANTIPASTO feeds a crowd. We don’t have to labor over design with a set of blueprints. We can mix it ahead, and it will make incredible leftovers for sandwiches. Uh – don’t expect much in the way of leftovers. They usually can’t leave this one alone. You won’t have to worry about it sitting out as it does not have a tendency to spoil.  It is a conversation inducer: everyone gathers around talking and eating versus wandering about with a cracker. With just one spoon, you get a little of everything on your plate. It is great for a lunch, a buffet, a first course, an appetizer, and outdoors – On the Patio!

MIXED ANTIPASTO

Prep: 35-40 minutes

Serves: About 10  (just cut in half if you need less- but it keeps well for leftovers)

Ingredients:

Marinated Mushrooms: Marinate 3/4 lb fresh cremini or baby bella mushroom halves several hours ahead of putting your antipasto together. Marinate mushrooms with:  1/4 c. extra virgin olive oil, 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar, fresh basil chopped, 1 clove garlic chopped and salt and pepper to taste. I like to add a small amount of red pepper flakes. Refrigerate until ready to combine with the rest of ingredients.

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Meats: Any combination of the following meats can be used. Use all or a few. Cut all meats into pieces. I’ll show you some of them.

1/3 lb Genoa or Hard Salami

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1/4 lb Mortadella

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1/4 lb Prosciuttto

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1/3 lb Capicolla

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1/4 lb Pepperoni or Sopressata

1/4 lb Bresaola

 

Cheeses: Cut into edible sized chunks

1/2 lb Aged Provolone ( make sure to use aged – the one that smells like sox!)

1/2 lb Fresh Mozzarella

Other ingredients: Again, use any combination – best using all!

2 c. Cherry, Grape, or Campari tomatoes – cut in halves or quarters

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3/4 c. Peperoncini cut up

1 c. Roasted Red Peppers (can be home roasted or from the jar)- cut into strips

1 c. Olives – Pitted Kalamatas were used for the demonstration here –Gaetas, Castelvetranos, Cerignolas all good – but make sure to pit them.

14 oz can rinsed and quartered artichoke hearts

2 oz. can anchovies cut up – or use just a few – you SHOULD use them – they melt into the dish when mixed, but the flavor they add is incomparable.

1/2 c. capers, rinsed and drained

Any other pickled vegetables such as carrots, cauliflower etc. are always welcome.

Dressing: Mix the following together:

Juice of 1/2 Fresh Lemon

1/3 c. Extra Virgin Olive Oil

3 Tbsp Balsamic Vinegar

3 Cloves Fresh Garlic – chopped

Instructions:

Gently toss all of the meats, cheeses, and other ingredients together. Then pour the dressing over and toss together well.

Garnish and mix again:

1/2 c. Chopped Fresh Basil ( or use whole leaves)

1/2 c. Chopped Fresh Parsley

Pinch of Red Pepper Flakes

At this point taste for seasoning and add salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Important: Refrigerate Antipasto until ready to serve. Just before serving taste for seasoning and add more of dressing, salt, pepper if needed. Drizzle with Extra Virgin Olive Oil.

Serving: This makes a beautiful and colorful presentation in a large glass bowl. Serve with small plates as an appetizer. The beauty of this is that everyone gets a little of everything quickly by spooning it onto their plate. Find a fresh loaf of Italian bread or Focaccia and have PLENTY on hand to serve with this dish.

Vino: Because of the dominance of meats and the earthy nature of the cheeses, I like a red wine and suggest a Ripassa Valpolicella, a Barbera D’Alba, Aglianico, or even a good Chianti Classico Riserva.

PARLA COME MANGI!

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CRANBERRY COMPOSTA!

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Buon giorno!

Clear the decks! Make room in the menu for Cranberry Composta. Quick! If attending a collective Thanksgiving, call the hostess and insist on bringing the Cranberries. If you are hosting Thanksgiving Dinner for la famiglia, prepare yourself for the adulation that is to come as a result of serving this dish. Not that you need any more enticement, but hear this: You can make it ahead and freeze it!

Now grab a bottle of Valpolicello (my father, Attilio’s favorite!) It is also referred to as a “baby Amarone”. It can be a Zenato Valpolicella, a Biscardo – whatever Valpolicella you prefer or fits your pocketbook. Set aside exactly one cup to use in the recipe to follow. Then breathe deeply, relax, pour yourself a glass of this wonderful jammy and not Chianti-dry red wine and prepare for a fun experience – sure to make you the hero or heroine of the holiday!

Of course, we know that Thanksgiving is not celebrated in Italy, and you certainly won’t be finding cranberries there. Probably the closest you’ll come to a cranberry in Italy is the Cranberry Bean. However, many of us “Italians in exile” and “Italians at heart” do celebrate and give thanks for the all of the benefits of living in this great land and the blessings we have been granted throughout the year. With that in mind, we will all need to come up with some alternative to the shivering red blob from the can, Cranberry Sauce, to which we have all become accustomed.

There are so many ideas out there for Cranberry dishes from the jelled to the frozen. Many in the South, where I now live, often make their traditional family recipe – maybe Great Aunt Betty’s Cranberry Compote which is usually some form of cranberries, orange, sugar, etc. My mother, Loretta, got “hooked” on Arctic Salad many decades ago – a delicious frozen concoction of cranberries, mayo, whipped cream, walnuts and pineapple – almost dessert and rather decadent. We were all thankful she did because it became a treasured special addition to her yearly menu.

I’d like to propose something a little different for our Cranberries this year, incorporating some of the ingredients we are familiar with in Italian cooking: fresh basil, balsamic vinegar, Valpolicella wine, anise, etc. Now for the hook! Dark Chocolate! Yes, I have added dark chocolate to this year’s cranberries, and I think the results are amazing!

This cranberry dish is fun to make and SOOOO easy. You can make it several days ahead or freeze it. Caution – don’t try to make this alone in your house. That would be one wasted experience. This is one dish that will draw “them” in. I must warn you in advance – this dish makes your kitchen smell divine –with rich, warm, spicy aromas. FANTASTICO!

CRANBERRY COMPOSTA

12 oz package fresh cranberries

1 c. Valpolicella wine

Juice from a fresh orange

1 1/2 c. – 2 c. sugar – depending on how sweet you like it

Zest of one orange

1 orange segment stuck with 3 whole cloves

1 tbsp. balsamic vinegar

1 c. golden raisins

1 cinnamon stick

Pinch of anise

1/2 c. brandy

1 c. candied orange peel

1 c. toasted walnut halves

4 1/4 oz bar dark chocolate – cut into small pieces

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Fresh Basil for garnish

Begin:

Pour wine into large saucepan.

Add the orange juice and sugar to the wine.

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Bring the wine, orange juice and sugar to a boil – stir to help dissolve the sugar.

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Add the zest of orange.

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Add the orange segment stuck with cloves, cinnamon stick and balsamic vinegar.

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Add golden raisins and anise.

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Add the cranberries.

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Bring back to boil and simmer about 10 minutes. Cranberries will pop. Give occasional stir.

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Then add the brandy and candied orange peel. Simmer another 6 minutes.

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Remove from heat. Remove the orange segment and cinnamon stick and discard.

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Now Chill! It thickens as it chills.

When cold - add the toasted nuts and dark chocolate. Stir to mix in.

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Can be made several days ahead or freeze. It freezes well.

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When ready to serve garnish with chopped fresh basil. Gobble Gobble!

PARLA COME MANGI!

**Also: See the November RECIPE OF THE MONTH on LINDA’S ITALIAN TABLE !

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Gnocchi With Pork Ragu

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This Pig Needs No Lipstick!

 

Buon giorno!

 

When I think of Gnocchi, I automatically envision the Classic Tuscan dish, Gnocchi con Sugo Cinghiale or Gnocchi with Wild Boar Sauce. Since today’s grocery meat department is generally devoid of wild boar, my taste reverts to making MY favorite preparation of Gnocchi which is served with Pork Ragu . This sauce is, in my mind and heart, the standard among tomato sauces and can be used with so many types of pasta. It is easy and not expensive to prepare. This sauce illustrates the saying “Appetito vien mangiando” or Appetite comes with eating, as this is the sauce that brings an appetite to life! I like to use different sauces with my Gnocchi, but I suggest this Pork Ragu is the signature and reminds me most of that mouth watering Boar Sauce that is steeped in Tuscan tradition!

As I was growing up in our little house in Binghamton, New York, this was the type of sauce (with a couple of minor additions from me) that my mother, Loretta, most often made. It was Sunday Sauce. I can hear her say “the most flavorful sauce is made with pork – especially the bones!” The aroma of this pork sauce would permeate the house for hours, and I would wait for the moment when she would call me to “taste” the sauce. This taste test consisted of a piece of crusty Italian bread and a spoonful of the hot sauce on top. It brought a burst of flavor on the tongue and would wet my appetite for the meal to follow. I often sneaked a second taste when her attention was diverted.

Speaking of sneaking, my father, Attilio, would inevitably “slip” something into the sauce that Loretta did not know about. If asked, he called it “Sale da Gaeta”. (Translation: Salt from Gaeta – Gaeta being a city on the water between Rome and Naples from where the famous and wonderful wrinkly olives hail) Whenever a dish was especially delicious, he announced “Ah! It’s Sale da Gaeta!” None of us ever saw this “special salt” and very often, we assumed that his little addition to the recipe was usually red pepper flakes or “hot pepper” as he called it! He always had a container of this at the dinner table where he liked to add just a little more heat! (Hear more about Loretta and Attilio at“About Linda” at Linda’s Italian Table)

Each region of Italy seems to treat this sauce a little differently. Each area uses a different meat or combination of meats. Some use boar, some venison, some pork, beef, veal or all three. My mother, using the pork, left the meat on the bone alla Napoletana instead of shredding it Tuscan style. Everyone, then, received a large piece of meat still on the bone which was served separately after the pasta course and before the salad which is the traditional Italian style of presenting the meal.

When selecting the pork for this dish, it is your choice. Some even prefer to use Italian Sausage. When I choose to use sausage in any sauce, I always like a combination of sweet (mild) and hot. My family would almost always be most likely to use a cut of pork with the bones, and sometimes would combine both sausage and pork in the sauce. For Gnocchi, my personal preference is to use just the pork with bones. After the pork is shredded, it becomes very tender and surprisingly light with the Gnocchi. Any very inexpensive cut of pork from neck bones to ribs – anything really – can be used here. The desired effect is a combination of intense flavor and tender meat. The meat will cook in the sauce so long that it will tenderize and fall from the bone making it easy to serve. Andiamo!
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

PORK RAGU!

About 3 lb pork on bones, can be ribs, neck bones or other

 

 

 

 

1/4 lb pancetta diced

4 cloves garlic – chopped finely

4 tbsp olive oil

1 onion chopped – the sweeter the onion the sweeter the sauce!

1 stalk celery chopped

8 baby carrots chopped in very small pieces ( baby carrots are sweeter!)

1 c. red Italian wine (vino rosso) – could be a Chianti or Valpolicella

2 28 oz cans San Marzano Tomatoes- if you can find them because San Marzano tomatoes are by far the tastiest – if you can’t – use other- can use crushed or whole peeled and crush them

1/2 c. chopped Fresh Flat (preferable) Leaf Italian Parsley

1/2 cup chopped Fresh Basil

2 Tbsp chopped Fresh Oregano

1 tsp sugar

1 – 1 1/2 tsp Kosher salt (to taste)

6-7 twists of the Black Pepper grinder

1/4 tsp red pepper flakes

Fresh Basil chopped for garnish

Begin by just browning the pancetta pieces.

Add the olive oil and then the garlic and pork with heat at medium being careful not to let the garlic burn.

Just brown each side of the pork as it will cook thoroughly in the sauce. Remove the pork pieces, set aside, and add the onion, celery, and carrots. Stir occasionally and cook these vegetables about 5 min until just tender.

Then add the browned meat back to the pan followed by the wine.Scrape the bottom of the pan a little to release the small bits from the bottom of the pan, turning the meat to let the wine seep into both sides. Cook the wine for about 2-3 min at medium high and let it bubble.

Then add the San Marzano Tomatoes, and all herbs and remaining seasoning including the sugar. ( Loretta and Attilio would be taken aback by this last addition as they used to whisper “so and so puts sugar in their sauce” as if some law had been broken.) In ancient times, sugar was said to be used only by the wealthy as it was considered dear. In our household it was – GASP ! - the Cardinal Sin.

My personal take on this is that the sugar cuts the acidity of the tomatoes and adds a little balance to the sauce.

If you have a rind or a piece of one from your Parmigiano-Reggiano, go ahead and drop it in the sauce as it simmers! It will add another level of flavor.

Simmer this sauce on low heat for about 3 hours – stirring occasionally. I like to cover mine while simmering. You know it’s done when the meat is so tender that is falls easily from the bones.

When sauce is finished, remove the pork pieces to a separate dish. the meat should be falling off the bones and you might have to “fish” for it.

The next step is familiar to those especially in the South who make barbecue. Take 2 forks and gently use them to shred the meat pulling in opposite directions.

Discard the bones and the fat. You might want to stir a couple of tablespoons of the sauce into the meat. I like to keep the meat separate from the sauce until serving time.

To serve, prepare the gnocchi as directed in last week’s post “Making Gnocchi” and place it in a serving dish bathing it in the delicious sauce. I take the shredded pork and mound it in the middle.

Garnish with chopped Fresh Basil and present to your guests with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Cheese.

This makes a large amount of sauce, so what you do not use can be frozen for another great pasta meal – perhaps with Pappardelle!

My favorite accompaniment to this meal is a Zenato Valpolicella Superiore Doc 2007. .

PARLA COME MANGI!

**Also: See the new November RECIPE OF THE MONTH on LINDA’S ITALIAN TABLE – for another great sauce recipe for GNOCCHI!

Food Photos by Tommy Hanks Photography

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